New Kitchen Primer

Fame and Fortune

2011-10-29T14:21:00.000-04:00

When I started this blog, the idea of doing something so public was (and remains) very exciting. My ambition knew no bounds…. Not only was I going to help Sylvia and others with kitchen challenges, I was going to be the ‘New Millennium Julia for New Cooks’. In my fantasy I was not only helping people towards a healthy relationship with food, I was on my way to fame and fun! I’d go to cooking school! Manufacturers of fantastic kitchen tools would vie for a mention on New Kitchen Primer. Then there would be the public speaking dates. Quit the day job! Have handlers! Someone to manage my appointment book! Oh hell…. Let’s throw in a new wardrobe and makeover too!

In a funny sort of way, some of that stuff did happen. Alas not the wardrobe and makeover, but that’s so superficial. This has been an experience with substance. There have been many ‘hits’ for a blog that was sparsely promoted and, at the end of the day, I have fully enjoyed myself. I knew that I loved food and photography, but I also discovered that I love to write! Who knew?!

So this is it (for now at least). The blog as it stands will remain accessible (apparently nothing dies in the blog-o-sphere) and I will do my best to finish the index so that if any of you out there want to return for a recipe, ingredient or method tip, whatever you need will be a little easier to find. No new entries on this one. If I find myself pining for a public fantasy life, I’ll simply start up again.

Ultimately it was my readers that really made this labor-of-love a not only a pleasure but a very important part of the last three years.

Thanks to all of you and Bon Appétit!

PS Thanks to Ken Lax for the kitchen portrait

The Far Flung Correspondent: Hot Tea on a Hot Day

2011-10-19T09:57:00.001-04:00

Pardon the 'blog absence'. What I neglected to tell you when I wrote last is that after California, there was a long planned visit to the UK, and I trotted off to Wales to visit my mother and Cathy (the pastry chef sibling).

It was a beautiful day for a drive, perfect for engaging in a purposeful abandonment of purpose and direction. The result? We found ourselves at a lovely little hotel called Tudor Farmhouse, which is tucked inside The Forest of Dean. Not only were we in a historic spot, we were also experiencing a historic hot day, the hottest recorded for an October in 100 years.

As any Englishman or woman will tell you, nothing cools you down like a hot cup of tea. What better time to engage in a quintessential British indulgence, Cream Tea? "Cream" in this instance means clotted cream, and as my 91-year-old mother will tell you, it's not something that you do everyday, but is entirely survivable. So a nice pot of Earl Grey, scones, jam, butter and clotted cream. Heaven. What was also 'heavenly' was eating something that is not easily had here in the States (clotted cream has a very short shelf life). Dairy in the UK is a different animal (less processed) from what we experience here in the 'colonies', and the flavor is amazing. The Brits may be discrete in their social habits, but when it comes to cream and butter there simply is no restraint!

All that lovely fat to the brain the got me thinking. Romans were living in this spot at one time; perhaps it's a sign of long embedded civilization that can produce something so, well, civilized!

As a postscript, I want to let you know that I am in the process of rethinking New Kitchen Primer. This is almost the 200^th entry and maybe it’s time to ‘shift gears’ (just a little). Suggestions are more then welcome and please stayed tuned.

Ready for Ice Cream

2011-09-04T11:02:00.002-04:00

Have I ever mentioned my father here? There have been cameo appearances of Marge (my mother), Cathy (the pastry chef sister), Sylvia, Ben and Pip... and the not so occasional mention of my "Family of Choice"-the people with whom I’ve shared not only meals but all the rest.

Alan came over to the ‘States’ from Liverpool in the early 1950’s. Like most immigrants he was seeking a new life and new adventures. I’ve shared in some of those times and now that I look back, have an appreciation for the zest with which this gregarious man not only ate his ice cream but savored anything even remotely related to fun.

I’m about to take a small break from Kitchen Primer. The little guy in glasses is now 80 and it’s off to California to see how he’s doing. If he still savors his ice cream, I’ll be reassured. It hasn’t always been easy being Al’s daughter (I know my children would say the same of me), but it’s never been dull and I’d like to think that my inheritance has been knowing how to be a little whacky at times, irreverent throughout and always ready for ice cream.

Lychees

2011-08-19T14:03:00.005-04:00

At the moment, you could make the argument that New York is tropical. That’s an over-heated brain talking. This may be cruel, but remember winter? I usually write about the seasonal and local this time of year, but couldn’t resist these beautiful tropical fruits. After all, Lychee are not local to us, but they are local somewhere (I heard once that there is a world outside of Brooklyn). Also, chinatown has these in stands everywhere so it’s certain that in some spots on the planet Lychee are in season as well. Chances are you will be able to find these plum sized tropical fruits in your own alternate shopping universe.

Intrigued (just a little)? What do you really need to know? Just like cherries, Lychee are picked when ripe and do not improve after harvest. Choose them intact and red to pink in color. Unlike cherries, they will keep for a couple of weeks. If you don’t have a cool place in your kitchen, they are best stored loosely in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator. The pretty pink shell color will turn brown, but the interior fruit will remain juicy and ready to eat. Splitting the shell carefully with either your fingers or a knife, and carefully peeling it away, pale white flesh will be revealed. Sweet and pleasantly floral, full of vitamin C and with healthy amount of potassium, lychees will sooth even the most over-heated culinary adventurer. Don’t eat the seed and don’t worry about winter…. plenty of time for that!

Ah… Bings!

2011-08-12T18:49:00.002-04:00

Besides choosing firm, fleshy, glossy plump fruit with stalks that are not dried-up, what do you need to know about cherries? There are two types, the sweet, eat-as-is-type that you see in the photo and sour cherries that are used for pies and other delights. For our purposes let’s stick with the eat-now variety.

Cherries do not improve after being harvested, which means that they are ripe at harvest and fragile, an exemplar of the seasonal. If you haven’t eaten your cherries already (they don’t last long in this house), refrigerate them loosely in a bag with holes and away from strong smelling foods. Don’t let them languish there too long.

The cherries in this photo were both labeled as "Bing" at the supermarket. The dark red is the classic Bing. My favorite food geek, Harold McGee, writes that the deep red fruits contain more antioxidants, which means that they are very good for you. The California Cherry site makes all sorts of health claims. Naturally they have a vested interest in extolling the virtues of cherries, but who can resist believing all of it with such a lovely and delicious fruit?

What you don’t need to know, but what is fun and interesting, is that Bing cherries were named after Ah Bing, a Manchurian Chinese foreman who helped the horticulturist Seth Lewelling in the late 1800’s develop this particular variety.

Ahhhh…. Bings!

Gazpacho Toledano or Attack of the Killer Tomato!

2011-08-05T12:36:00.002-04:00

Here’s a recipe for some killer gazpacho (a chilled tomato soup that is not only delicious but also pure health-in-a-bowl). This recipe is adapted from The Vegetarian Epicure Book Two, by Anna Thomas. My copy of this book is so tired that the pages have gone from white to whole wheat. That said-there’s nothing to tire of regarding this recipe.

This makes 6-8 servings…. enough to send a liquid ‘thank you’ to the farmer across the street. Keep those tomatoes coming Jerry!

Equipment

Chopping stuff (surface, knife)
Peeling stuff (a peeler)
Measuring stuff (spoons and cups)
Two large bowls
A blender or food processor

Ingredients

7-8 medium ripe tomatoes (this is a very inexact recipe, so feel free!)
2 medium cucumbers
1 green bell pepper
1 small onion
2-3 cloves of garlic
1 1/2 slices of rustic white bread (not the mushy soft stuff)
1 1/2 cups of cold water
6 Tablespoons of Olive Oil
4-5 Tablespoons of wine vinegar (I usually use red wine or sherry vinegar)
3 teaspoons of salt (or to taste)
2 teaspoons of paprika (paprika comes in hot, mild or smoky- careful with the hot variety)
A pinch of ground cumin
Freshly ground pepper to taste

Method

Wash all your vegetables
Cut the tomatoes into 4 pieces and put them in the bowl
Peel the cucumbers, slice them lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Cut into inch pieces and put them in the bowl
Cut the bell pepper in half and seed it. Cut into inch-sized pieces and put them in the bowl.
Peel and dice the onion and (you’ve got it) put into the bowl
Peel the garlic, roughly chop it and put it into the bowl (starting to see a trend?)
Cut the bread into cubes and add it to the bowl

Roughly mix up the vegetables and bread in the bowl and put into the blender in batches, adding a little water each time. Blend until it’s pureed (soup). Add the puree to the second bowl as you go.

When all the vegetables, bread and garlic are pureed and in the second bowl add the oil, vinegar, seasonings and any remaining water. Add more water if it’s too thick; also adjust the seasonings to your liking.

Chill for a couple of hours before serving. Serve with some extra chopped vegetables and croutons if you are feeling deluxe!

Summer in a bowl! Bon Appetite!

Zucchini wars strike Brooklyn! Or: What to do with an unexpected cucumber.

2011-07-29T15:34:00.003-04:00

This isn't the country, but that doesn't mean that we don't grow food or raise chickens (evidenced by large bags of chicken feed at Pip's favorite pet store). I am not ready to write about chickens, but I am ready to write about unexpected cucumbers. Lucky me! Yesterday on the gate was a bag of locally grown tomatoes, a zucchini and a cucumber. Very locally grown, in fact. The contents of the bag were the fruits of my neighbor Jerry’s gardening labor. Jerry lives on the other side of the street, the side of the street that gets morning sun on the garden. This accident of directional fate means that his patch of terra firma produces an abundance of what I can't, namely tomatoes, cucumbers and zucchini. I won't be able to engage in zucchini wars by hanging a revenge bag of courgettes on his gate, but I can return the favor with this terrific recipe for Agua Fresca from Oaxaca. It requires cucumber, pineapple, celery, sugar and lime. (Follow the imbedded links for ‘how to’s’ regarding pineapple preparation et al.)

Equipment

Something to chop with and a place to do it
Blender
Mesh Strainer ( a medium mesh strainer is best for this)
Something to squeeze juice out of a lime

Ingredients

2 cups of chopped pineapple
1 cup of chopped cucumber (after it's been peeled and seeded)
1 cup of chopped celery
Lime juice (from one or two limes- your call)
Sugar (to taste)
Cold water (maybe 1/2 cup, again- entirely up to you, you’re the boss!)

Method

Place chopped pineapple, cucumber and celery (in batches if necessary) in blender.
Add cold water to facilitate blending and to make this into a beverage!
Add Lime juice and sugar to taste (you can do this... cooking is an inexact art!)
Blend and strain

Enjoy!

Now to contemplate the fate of those lovely tomatoes and an equally lovely zucchini. Not exactly warfare. In fact, things are pretty neighborly here in Brooklyn!

Confessions with a Sugar Snap

2011-07-22T17:59:00.004-04:00

So many blogs are confessional by nature, something I've done my best to avoid (with varying degrees of success). Today, however, I'm going to brazenly confess that I have been goofing off most of the week upstate in farming country. I had intended to do some food reportage and by doing so, keep myself amongst the useful and hard working. Well, a bit of sun, a welcoming pool and no agenda was all that was needed to corrupt any plans of substance or right thinking.

My gracious hostess pal, Kristen, furthered this 'devil may care', 'fun in the sun', 'no worries' experience with her straightforward seasonal cooking. I have to say; I am SO over culinary calisthenics. Give me a simple, surprising dish and I am happy as a (on vacation) clam. Are you ready? It doesn't get any simpler than this (well it does if we are talking naked veg which is also very nice, but lacking in the surprising department). Here we go:

Acquire some sugar snap peas (the link takes you to last year's introduction)
Wash them
Trim them (or not)
Toss them
Eat them

Hey! Wait a minute... aren't you missing something (other than the sun block)?

Toss with:

your best olive oil (just a drizzle)
a generous pinch of your best (and coarsest) salt
some sesame seeds

That's it. You can go back to the pool, forget the agenda, relax and enjoy! Thanks Kristen... sugar snap peas prepared this way will always make me feel on holiday, pool or not!

Horchata: Try this at home!

2011-07-15T15:14:00.001-04:00

We are not playing with matches. Not even close. We are, however, matching what was my recent and delightful introduction to Horchata. Why not? With the magic of the internet (where there is a recipe for just about anything) there is no reason not to try making something that you enjoy in the privacy and safety of your very own kitchen. And guess what? I did make the Horchata, but I also improvised. Friends were coming over for an impromptu dinner and here I was about to be caught shy of dessert. Now that’s how to see your hostess-ing reputation go up in flames! The horchata base was sitting innocently in the refrigerator waiting to replicate the delicious drink experienced in Red Hook. So what’s a hostess on the hot spot to do? Ice pops of course! Instead of adding all the water, I added just less than half. I also took my time straining it so that the mixture was quite concentrated. After a devil-may-care splash of Marsala, the ice pop mold was located and voila! Horchata ice pops were on the menu. And, all modesty aside, they were a pretty big hit. Not exactly playing with fire (my friends are a forgiving and adventurous group), but far less hazardous and way more delicious!

Here’s a transcribed recipe for Horchata taken from the Food Network that originated with Emeril Lagasse. You can follow the link or find your own recipe. After finding Emeril’s on the web, I looked at Mark Bittman’s The Best Recipes in the World. He has a slightly different method that works too. My guess is that there as many versions out there as there are batches of this terrific drink.

Equipment

Measuring gadgets
Blender (certainly)
Spice grinder (if you have one)
A couple of bowls (and a pitcher if you have one)
Fine mesh strainer and wooden spoon to coax things along
Zester or sharp knife

Ingredients

8 Tablespoons of uncooked long-grain white rice
1 cup of Blanched Almonds (after last week you’re expert… right?)
1/2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
2 strips of lime zest- just the green part (make sure to avoid the white pith, it’s bitter)
3 cups of hot water- later you will need 4 cups of cool water
1 cup of sugar or agave
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

Method

Place the rice in the blender or your spice grinder. Process until it is like powder and as fine as you can get it.

In a large bowl or pitcher, combine rice ‘flour’ with the almonds, cinnamon and lime zest. Pour 3 cups of hot water over everything and let it stand overnight in the refrigerator.

After it’s had an overnight in your fridge, work in batches, putting the mixture into your blender and processing it until it is as smooth as possible. Add 2 cups of cool water to your initial blending.

Placing a fine mesh strainer over a bowl, gradually strain the liquid. You can stir gently with a wooden spoon or spatula. There will be a lot of solids left. Discard them. Take your time. The more patient you are, the smoother your Horchata will be.

When it is all strained, place in a pitcher or clean bowl and add the remaining 2 cups of cool water (or don’t if you want to try the ice-pop thing) and add the vanilla along with the sugar. Keep tasting and add the amount of sugar that you like…. this is personal!

Cover and refrigerate until completely chilled (which you will be too when sharing this non-dairy drink with all your pals). Serve on ice.

Learn Something New Everyday: Blanching Almonds

2011-07-08T14:37:00.003-04:00

Now it may seem a bit odd to squander a summer entry on 'how to blanch almonds', but this is all part of my master plan to introduce you to Horchata. Horchata and I met recently by way of the food trucks in Red Hook (not far from Chez Pip). Nothing beats a lazy Saturday afternoon that's complete with a refreshing ‘learn something new everyday’ moment.

Don’t quote me (because I’m quoting Wikipedia), but I am teaching you how to make Mexican Horchata. This means blanched almonds, cinnamon, vanilla and, most importantly, rice.

So let’s get back to blanching. Blanching almonds is dead easy and a skill that you can use year round (flourless chocolate cake for example). Starting with 'Equipment', here’s how:

Equipment

Something to boil water in (kettles are useful things... put one on your wish list if you don't have one already)
A bowl

(Pretty easy so far... right?)

Ingredients

Raw Almonds (for the Horchata recipe you will need a cup of them)

Method

Place almonds in a bowl
Pour boiling water over them
Let almonds sit briefly until you can pluck one out and slip the nut from the now puckered skin.

You did it! For next week's follow-up Horchata recipe you will need to have rice, ground cinnamon, vanilla extract a sweetener (sugar? agave?) and a lime. Useful equipment will be a blender, a spice grinder (helpful but not strictly necessary) and a fine mesh strainer or some cheesecloth.

Ready yourself for a dairy-free, delightful and delicious culinary 'learn something new every day' moment!

White Currants

2011-07-01T16:58:00.001-04:00

Once in a while one simply has to respond to beauty.

These diminutive white currants were today’s find from the Coop. Not sure what to do with them just yet. A little bit of research in Harold McGee’s book, On Food and Cooking, tells me that currents in general have growing restrictions in the United States. This is because currants can carry a disease that affects white pines. It’s difficult to imagine such jewel-like fruit doing harm to anything, but does explain why currants, especially black currants, are more common in England. Perhaps their laws are not nearly as severe. Currants in general are used more in France and the UK.

The berry I sampled from this lot was a little bitter. Was I disappointed? Somewhat. That said, having these in front of the camera today made me stop, observe and be in the moment. Maybe they won’t make dessert, but they were responsible for a much-needed pause, and just a little bit of quiet before July 4^th and spectacles of a grander sort. Whether your weekend is full of loud or quiet moments (or both), enjoy!

Zucchini Ribbon Salad

2011-06-25T10:07:00.003-04:00

Not unlike Zucchini Wars, this recipe has made a few stops. It came to me via Habibi’s person Glenn, who picked it up some where from CBS and a person named Tony Tantillo (we don’t know whose person he is). Whoever wants to take responsibility is fine by me. This is delicious and very simple to make. According to Glenn, any shape of zucchini is fine, a peeler does the trick no matter what. So… here we go. Don’t be daunted by the length of this. As usual, I’m trying to give you every detail in a simple way so that any beginners out there will be good to go! “Bon Appetite!” from Pip’s person (that would be me).

Equipment

Knife
Small bowl and larger serving bowl
Vegetable Peeler
Zester
Something to get the juice from your lemon
Whisk (if you have one, otherwise let’s improvise using a jar with a tight lid)

Ingredients

2 large Radishes
1 medium Zucchini (or a couple of small ones- this is one of those non-precise recipes)
1/4 pound Spears of thin Asparagus (give or take)
1 Lemon
1/4 cup of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Pecorino Romano cheese
Salt (kosher or better please) and Pepper (freshly ground if possible)

Method

Wash your vegetables and the lemon
Cut radishes into thin slices and place them in a bowl of water for 10-15 minutes
Cut asparagus at an angle into 1/4-inch pieces
Using your peeler, make ribbons of the zucchini (you may want to discard the first peel, so that you don’t have one ribbon that’s all skin - also discard the ends)
Use the zester on the lemon to get about a tablespoon of zest (again, you can ‘wing’ this)
Drain the Radishes and combine all of the above in the larger bowl
Juice the lemon and combine it with the Olive Oil in the small bowl adding the salt and pepper to taste. Whisk the *!@# out of it, until it is emulsified (cloudy and fully mixed)
Pour the lemon/oil mixture over salad and toss.
Shave some Romano cheese over the salad and it’s time to eat!

Zucchini: My Little Courgette

2011-06-18T10:36:00.000-04:00

Call it zucchini or courgette; both names are the diminutive for squash. These are summer squashes, meaning that the skin is tender and edible, as are the seeds. Yet another case of wash and eat! As you can see, size and shape can vary. These little round courgettes (I’m feeling French) were snagged at the farmer’s market on the way to tango lessons (where I feel very Argentinean).

As usual, choose firm, unblemished squashes. When it comes to zucchini, small (6-8 inches) will deliver more flavor. This is the beginning of the season and at the moment; I’m enjoying them small and raw.

Later on when Zucchini Wars start, the situation has been known to spin out of control. These guys can be very prolific and if you are lucky to live amongst people who grow zucchini, don’t be surprised to open your door to a bag of summer squash largess… which is your signal to drop a bag of your largess at someone else’s door and surprise another neighbor, and so on.

Grated, summer squash make terrific additions for batter breads and muffins. They are also wonderful grilled. But it’s too hot for heat and raw zucchini salads are a snap to prepare. Sylvia and I had a very tasty salad just the other night. Sorry to be a little courgette, but I’m going to post the recipe next week (the garden beckons). Be prepared with some zucchini (the long variety), a few radishes, some thin asparagus, a lemon and some Pecorino Romano. Locate your vegetable peeler, zester and stay tuned for a very refreshing recipe.

Kirby Cucumbers and Sylvia’s Favorite Pickles

2011-06-12T12:21:00.000-04:00

This is a Kirby, yesterday’s quick grab from the farmer’s market (along with some lovely round zucchini which are in the hopper for another entry).

Small (about 4-5 inches long) and firm, these are a member of the cucurbit family and a direct relative (as all cucumbers are) of watermelons. Like watermelon these lovely little cucumbers are crisp, moist and refreshingly sweet. These particular kirbys are sliced in preparation for Chinese Pickled Cucumber Salad, an easy recipe that is one of Sylvia’s favorites. That is the slices that are left…they are also terrific as is and part of this photograph has already been consumed! The end bits were a little bitter (larger cucumbers have sweeter skin), but the slices were fine as is. Another case of instant satisfaction. Delicious raw, great as pickles, what’s not to like?! This recipe requires a little advanced thinking because it needs an over-night stay in the refrigerator. If you can stop eating them as-is, it’s worth the wait.

Adapted from Ken Hom’s Chinese Kitchen, here’s the recipe:

Ingredients

12 oz of Kirby cucumbers (about 4)
1 plus 1/2 Tablespoon of salt (kosher is best)
3 Tablespoons of sugar
2 Tablespoons of Chinese white rice vinegar
3 Tablespoons of sesame oil

Method

Trim off the bitter ends of the cucumber and discard
Thinly slice the remaining cucumber
In a large bowl, toss the slices of cucumber with the salt and sugar
Cover and refrigerate overnight

When ready to serve, squeeze out the liquid (use your hands, best tools in the kitchen!)
Toss the slices with the vinegar and sesame oil (you are allowed to use a spoon here!)

For color and punch, garnish with 2 fresh red chilies seeded and sliced (optional of course)

Fresh Garlic

2011-06-03T17:03:00.000-04:00

Last week's 'try-something-new' purchase was too extravagant (large) for the usual kitchen photo spot. These impressive stalks (elegantly seated on the deck) are Fresh Garlic.

This is what garlic looks like before the bulb is separated from the stem, and before it takes on the white papery outfit that we are so accustomed to.

Originally intended for a pickling recipe, I ended up *braising these impressive fellows, serving them last night over salmon burgers. They were milder than you might think and there are plenty left over for an omelet. I’m also thinking that they would make a nice addition to mashed potatoes. Certain to be at the farmer’s market again this week, I may get a few more stalks for this weekends’ grilling moment. My guess is that they will keep good company with their fellow destined-for-the-grill-basket vegetables.

* Braising, in this case (although braising is most often mentioned regarding the preparation of meat) meant a quick sauté of the thinly sliced lower ends followed by some chicken broth and a tight lid. Leaving them at a low simmer until tender and serving them as a garnish at room temperature was just the trick!

Shocking!

2011-05-27T18:38:00.000-04:00

Sugar Snap peas are at the market. Not shocking news, but a little shock treatment and you have an almost instant snack. We’ve done this before, but I wanted you to know that you don’t have to save the ‘shock treatment’ for sugar snaps (even though they are today’s photo op). Broccoli, asparagus, carrots, green beans, snow peas all brighten up after a little hot/cold treatment.

Here’s how:

Get a large pot of water to a ‘rolling boil’ (large bubbles) and throw in some salt.

While the water is coming to a boil, wash, cut and trim your veg (only if it needs it). Smaller pieces will cook more quickly and what we are attempting today (no worries… I have every confidence in your success) is to quickly produce brightly colored veg that is only marginally cooked and retains an almost ‘raw’ character (let’s keep it real!).

Also while waiting for the pot to boil (it’s large after all and has more water in it than you think you need), prepare the ‘shocking’ part: a large bowl containing ice cubes and cold water.

Find your spider, large strainer, slotted spoon or tongs (in other words, something to grab the veg from the jaws of being over-cooked).

Action time!

The water is boiling; quickly tip the prepared veg into the boiling maelstrom.

Wait just long enough for the color to heighten and depending on what’s in there, pull it out now! (or wait a minute or two if you want it cooked just a little)

Grab the ‘get-it-out-of-the-pot-quick-tool’ and quickly transfer the veg from the hot water to the cold cold ice bath….. burrrrrrrrr, who knew that there could be such drama kitchen-side?!

Once your veg has truly chilled out (you may be in a moment of perfect food/cook synchronicity), you can toss it in a little vinaigrette, make a simple dip, pull out some of that fancy salt you rarely use or simply mangia tutto (eat it up)!

Not so shocking after all, but I hope you surprised yourself!

Spring Cleaning and Optimism

2011-05-20T19:08:00.001-04:00

Maybe I should wait until after The Rapture (just in case), but some brands of optimism know no bounds and I feel confident that there will be a blog (and appetites) next week. How about adding a sense of order to give us a little spring in our culinary step? Jerry was absolutely right about too many entries to navigate. Now you can look at the ‘Label’ area on the right side (below the photo of Sylvia laughing) if you want to skip to a category. Feel free to let me know if there are some labels that you would like me to include.

So… in the service of simplicity, I’m trying to keep it just that. “Food for Thought” are my little rants and musings, “Vegetables” include everything from squashes and potatoes to the leafy green stuff (what do you think? Should that be another category?), “Fruits” are self-explanatory and if you want to find them via season there are the “Seasonal” listings. Rice is actually a grain, but in case you didn’t know, I felt it was important enough to share billing with grain. “Sauces and Dips” are not dance steps and also include salad dressings. “Kitchen Equipment” is the place to go for the instructional non-food stuff. A little self-control has been exercised with “Herbs and Spices”; I’ve tried to save this for entries about single ingredients. Naturally there are herbs and spices almost everywhere, this is for very basic information. No doubt, I’ll be adding a few more labels as I work to complete this, but before something happens, I want to get posted.

As much as I’d like to stay up all night and complete this spring-cleaning, a new salmon recipe beckons and a blogger has to eat!

Tomorrow is going to be just fine (not worried a wink). Next week we can go into raptures about something edible and seasonal!

Friday the 13th and the Vanishing Index

2011-05-13T18:08:00.006-04:00

A few weeks ago, one of the readers of Kitchen Primer, Jerry, asked for an index. It’s on the way Jerry! Thursday I figured out how to label entries and insert a list on the side. Well, I thought I did. Between yesterday (after having revisited over 50 of the entries, tagging them and reposting) and today, that work seems to have vanished (hate when that happens).

SO… a little blog sleuthing is in order (not to mention some repeat work) and hopefully by next weekend there will be an index (or part of one) for your blog reading pleasure.

Please pardon the absence this week of not only the index but also anything else useful. I will work behind the scenes at New Kitchen Primer and with any luck (tell me that this has absolutely nothing to do with today being Friday the 13th) next week you will have an index to revisit past stuff and we can again move forward with some kitchen basics.

I'm going to leave you hanging (had to tie this in with the photo somehow) and see you next week after a bit of mystery solving.

True Grit and Asparagus

2011-05-06T22:31:00.001-04:00

Here we are in May and I was just looking into the archives. March of 2010 was the time asparagus made an appearance here last. I may not have written about these delicious signs of spring since then, but I’ve been eating this favorite whenever it’s available and now is the time to seize the asparagus moment!

Once you review the Asparagus entry of last year, I want to add to your asparagus erudition. In fact, last weekend I added to mine. After purchasing a nice fresh bunch at the local farmer’s market (not perfect as you can see), I rushed home to photograph a method of storage for you. When bringing home some nice fresh firm spears (look for firm closed tips), treat them like lovely flowers. Cut off just a bit from the bottom of the stalks (you can do this in one fell swoop, it’s just to get a fresh cut), stand them in a heavy glass or jar with a bit of water and pop them in the fridge. Retrieve them soon (the fresher the better), cook and enjoy! Sounds simple, doesn’t it? Well, it is in theory and in reality is pretty simple. The mistake I made with this bunch is that I didn’t wash the spears enough. The cooked spears were gritty and dinner was a sad occasion. Thank goodness it was just Sylvia and I… this could have been one of those embarrassing culinary moments (that said, I’m a firm believer in getting well practiced at embarrassment. Being good at being embarrassed is on top of my personal ‘life skills’ list… but I digress).

Enough about me, let’s take it from the top:

Pick firm spears with tops that point up, are tight, and compact. You want the entire spear to have good vivid color (asparagus comes in a variety of colors- green, white and purple). Make sure the spears are without spots and not wilted in any way.

Fat or thin is fine (what ever you choose); spears should be of roughly the same size for even cooking.

Wash well!!!! True grit is out of place here (see embarrassing paragraph). Swish them in a basin and change the water until it is clear and grit-free. Be careful not to damage the tips.

Snap off the woody ends and cook.

Last March’s entry explained how to poach them. That’s a very nice method. But if you are ready to practice a little bit of true grit in the kitchen, turn on the broiler and find your mitt.

After washing, pat your grit-free spears dry and put them in a single layer on a sheet pan (your heaviest). Here you can lightly toss them with some olive oil, salt and pepper.

With your oven set to broil, place them under the broiler for just a couple of minutes.

Check your spears and shake the pan, cooking them just a little bit more. Don’t over do it! This will not take very much time (5 minutes max) so keep your mitt on and don’t wander away from the stove. Done! Slide them on to a plate and turn off the oven. Very easy and very delicious.

No grit and true grit all at the same time!

600 For Lunch and Cake in a Box

2011-04-29T13:29:00.005-04:00

Maybe Royal Weddings are not your cup of tea, but my guess is that around about now, the Queen is saying, “ I’d give my kingdom for a quiet cuppa”. Being The Queen, however, means behaving yourself at all times, so it’s certain that she is only saying this to herself. Sure, Elizabeth ll has help, but entertaining 600 guests for a Royal Wedding luncheon at The Palace must be work even for the most practiced hostess.

So, now that we’ve seen the dress and the first kiss, it’s time to imagine what the food is going to be like. You can go on the official Royal Wedding site to see the Royal Lunch menu, and check out how the cake will be made and decorated. If you stick with it, the pastry chef will explain the symbolism of the decorative details.

What they don’t delve into on the website is the tradition of the English Wedding cake. Just like the Monarchy, an English Wedding Cake it is based on solid long-standing traditions. Comprised mostly of dried fruit soaked in brandy and aged (ideally for at least 3 months- this makes it easier to slice), the cake serves as a culinary metaphor for the institution of Royalty itself. Dense, fruity, preserved (in this case with brandy) and covered in nuts (encased in marzipan which is almond paste), crowned in grand and symbolic ornamentation (in this case rolled fondant -the baker’s answer to Playdough), this institution is intended to last forever.

Since Roman times, nutmeats have been associated with fidelity and fertility. With this in mind, the top tier of the cake is set aside to celebrate either the first anniversary or first child of the happy couple. Portions of the main cake are shipped off to friends and loved ones who were unable to attend. Growing up in The States away from my relatives in the United Kingdom, I remember the occasional the arrival via post of a little box containing cake. There was usually some remnant of decoration atop the small slice. Somehow this seemed so thoughtful. Not only was there a bit of what is a remarkably substantial cake, there was also some of the fancy stuff.

Watching the telly this morning, the world witnessed the pleasure of embedded traditions (you did watch, didn't you?), and caught a glimpse of the fancy stuff as well. I know that Monarchies are controversial in this climate, but just for today I’m sure many felt there will always be a Britain!

Miso Soup and Joining Zatoichi

2011-04-23T09:46:00.001-04:00

A generous tablespoon of miso paste in a cup of hot water and quicker than Zatoichi can vanquish a bad guy (or flies, this is a fun link), you have soup. A delicious solution to a quick and healthy hot drink can be that simple. You really don’t need to know more.

But why leave it there? It turns out that miso is very interesting stuff. Typically miso is made from soybeans; it’s actually soybean paste (there are other variations, but we’ll save that for Advanced Miso). For anyone even slightly interested in Japanese food this is pretty common knowledge, but a quick call to Mamie and we could have more knowledge tucked in our kimono sleeve! My Japanese chef pal started out by explaining the dark/light thing. This is a consequence of age (darker is older), and there’s more. Miso is associated with different prefectures of Japan. The milder white misos are from the Kyoto area, which is in Southern Japan. This is where Mamie grew up. She was quick to tell me that she prefers the milder white miso. Kyoto was the seat of Japanese nobility and is associated with the arts and refinement, hence the more subtle and delicate miso. As she was telling me this I had the distinct impression that mellow white miso was truly part of her culinary DNA.

But what if I was talking to someone from the north? Would they praise the darker, saltier and stronger flavored miso? The dark, more fermented misos are associated with rustic, rural, rugged mountainous areas of chillier Northern Japan.

I like the idea of food preference as embedded DNA. We all have our comfort foods and engaging with familiar tastes can be like returning home. But how dull!!! Food is one of the simplest ways to experience something new. You can’t go wrong with a small tub of miso. Add some little cubes of tofu and a sliced scallion to your cup of miso and you can imagine dining with Zatoichi and some less savory characters!

Black Bean Soup

2011-04-16T17:08:00.002-04:00

I don’t always do what I’m told, but Jerry, a reader of this blog, asked me for a black bean soup recipe. This was just the sort of directive that is more like play than work, so here it is! Thanks Jerry.

This recipe is adapted from Deborah Madison’s wonderful book Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. It couldn’t be easier, especially if you own an immersion blender. An immersion blender is a blender on a stick. Rather than transport soup to your food processor or blender and back, you simply put the immersion blender in the pot and pulse it until you are happy with the texture of whatever it is you are subjecting to little sharp blades at the working end of this handy machine.

But back to soup.

In advance:

Sort, wash and soak 1 1/2 cups of Black Beans. See earlier entries starting with Meet the Beans

Cook's tools you will need:

A heavy soup pot or the closest thing you have
Measuring equipment
Knife and chopping surface
Immersion blender, regular blender or food processor (or, if you have neither and are really determined, you could manually mash some of your soup when we get to this part)

Prepare and portion other ingredients:

2 Tablespoons of butter or vegetable oil
1 cup of finely chopped onions
1/3 cup of diced celery
1/3 cup of diced carrot
1 cup of diced green bell pepper
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons of chopped fresh Rosemary
1 teaspoon of dried Thyme
1 Tablespoon tomato paste
Salt (Kosher if you have it)

Let's go!

Drain the beans. Set aside.
Melt butter or heat oil in soup pot and then add the vegetables and herbs.
Cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes or until lightly colored.
Stir in the tomato paste and cook for one more minute (be sure to distribute it as much as possible)
Add the beans and 2 1/2 quarts of water (10 cups)
Bring all to a boil then lower heat and simmer partially covered for 1 hour
After an hour add 2 teaspoons of salt and continue cooking until your beans are tender (15- 30 more minutes)
Remove bay leaves and by using either your emersion blender or other device, blend until about 2/3 of the beans are pureed (like baby food). If you used a blender or food processor, return soup to the pot and have a taste.

Decision time!

Deborah Madison finishes this recipe by adding 1/2 cup of Madeira (a fortified wine that is a cross between sherry and port) and 1/2 cup of cream, along with some chopped parsley. This was very nice, but a little rich for my taste.

Other Options to finish soup:

I like a spoonful of yogurt and some chopped cilantro. Crème fraiche would also be nice.

Then there is always the classic addition to black bean chili- some grated muenster and onions. Chopped parsley too (something green and fresh is important).

For you soup virgins, this may sound complicated, but really, it’s quite easy. Again, just imagine the steps, prep your ingredients ahead of time and give it a go! It’s chilly and rainy here in Brooklyn, just the sort of weather for some nice soup. Bon Appetite!

Aw Nuts!

2011-04-09T10:52:00.002-04:00

Up to this point I have assiduously avoided (or attempted to avoid) blogging as a medium of personal exposé. I’ve tried to make it ‘like me’ but not ‘about me’. I don’t know if that’s possible or even if I’ve been successful (notice how many I’s there are already in this entry?). There are so many blogs out there…. many of them food related. And why not? Food is the stuff of life and we all eat. We have to! Guaranteed that every one reading this has eaten something and recently.

So why blog? Pardon this week’s moment of personal indulgence and public rumination. My sister Cathy reminds me that New Kitchen Primer is something that I love to do. It keeps me writing and requires that I shoot food (both things that I love). Does it take time? Yes! Have I been learning along the way? Undoubtedly. Do I have readers? Not a lot, but enough to know that someone is reading.

All that said, I really don’t want this to be simply my little moment of weekly self-indulgence. Kitchen Primer started out as an attempt to help my daughter and her pals navigate their kitchens. I wanted to offer basic advice that wasn’t patronizing and maintained a sense of fun. I also wanted to take some of the fear out of the kitchen.

I know that many of my current readers don’t have these issues with their kitchens. This has given me pause and made me feel a little under-cooked in the purpose department.

So, this weekend, I am taking a break. Chances are I’ll be back next week with something to share, but in the meantime, if any of you out there in the internet cosmos have any suggestions or ideas, feel free to make a comment or just call me nuts!

Friends with Glass

2011-04-02T14:07:00.001-04:00

Done! It’s all about whom you choose to hang out with and it’s high time I started thinking about substance, longevity and good clean fun (one has to grow up eventually). Am I about to change my social network? April Fools! I’m talking storage containers!

Most of the bulk stuff at Chez Pip is already stored in glass, but I’ve been meaning for some time to purchase glass storage containers for leftovers and other stuff that needs to be refrigerated and often re-heated. Aren’t they beautiful?

Here’s why:

There is more and more evidence that storing food in plastic is bad for your health. It’s a case of the company one keeps and the petrochemical crowd (aka plastic) likes to insinuate itself with any food it’s hanging with. Glass knows how to maintain it’s own identity and that’s always the best kind of friend.

What about plastic and your microwave!?? Fuhgeddaboudit. Just don’t do it. Cooking in plastic is a very bad idea. Here’s a link to the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) Food Safety site. They explicitly say not to have any plastic touching your food in the microwave. It’s all about migration; as in heat and plastic conspire to leach chemicals into your food. A very unhealthy relationship!

There’s also the simple issue of flavors not getting attached to glass. All good, easy to clean fun. (We only want healthy attachments!)

Finally, let’s not forget looks. Call me shallow, but who wouldn’t rather live with beauty and longevity? Glass is not just a pretty face. It may be expensive to get started with, but glass will be there for you in the long haul and that means it’s more economical in the end, not to mention better for the planet when it finally does hit the recycle bin.

What to do with Rosemary?

2011-03-26T14:53:00.003-04:00

March did not disappoint (although that would have been very nice). Did you get snow? More chill? We did! I hate it when I’m right!

What to do with last week’s Spring Madness purchase? Rosemary loves lots of things and we may as well embrace the last bit of cold weather by heating up the kitchen.

Let’s call this ‘Last Chance Roast Potatoes’. By far the simplest and most satisfying dish ever, the biggest deal is coping with a hot oven and hot roasting pan. Do it for Rosemary! Time to put on the gloves (as in oven) and show ‘em your chops (also a good use of rosemary… make a rub of olive oil, salt and pepper and fresh rosemary).

We have done a potato series before and rather than reinvent the wheel, I’m going to ask you to revisit those blogs to get started. There are 4 entries in a row. For what we are doing today be sure to see One Potato and then Three Potato (the other episodes are about baked potatoes).

Here are the very simple additions to Episode Three:

Step 4: Add some fresh Rosemary along with the salt and pepper.
Step 5: Toss in the unpeeled garlic cloves.

That’s it!

Don’t forget to use a baking dish that will hold all of your potatoes and garlic cloves in one layer without too much fraternizing (these guys need a little space). Tender, young things such as these Fingerling potatoes don’t require peeling. I found them at the Coop, across the isle from the seeds and garden gloves (it doesn’t hurt to dream). As for Rosemary? She has weathered this March chill and is ready to cook!

Remember Rosemary

2011-03-19T19:32:00.014-04:00

Spring is still the dramatic theme for everything around here. Yesterday was downright balmy (which is also an emotional condition common to the first really warm day after winter). I’ve been through enough March’s to know that it’s wise to curb the impulse to march off to the farmer’s market and load up with herbs for the garden. So what did Pip and I do? We marched off to the farmer’s market to buy herbs for the garden… blame it on the season. Not completely ‘balmy’, restraint was exercised in front of the basil and other tender herbs. The weather is not yet predictable enough for those, and chances good that we will still experience a sharp chill before winter is a complete memory. But... Rosemary.

Rosemary is an evergreen whose Latin name translates as “dew of the sea” and it is truly evergreen in its native Mediterranean. My mother had a huge rosemary bush in her English garden. Winters are milder there and the giant bush easily survived year after year. Here at the Gowanus Botanical Garden (aka my patch of terra firma) survival is hit and miss. This past winter was a killer, so who was I to resist a very handsome plant at the market quietly saying ‘take me home...garden...it's spring’? Not me, apparently.

Rosemary is used in winter roasts and stews, but it’s also terrific for grilled dishes. This fragrant herb can also make a nice cup of herbal tea. Larousse Gastronomique says that a sprig "gives delicate flavor to milk used for a dessert". The later was news to me.

Another thing I didn’t know (well, one of many many things I don’t know) is that on April 23, residents of Stratford-upon-Avon (we’re back in England) celebrate Shakespeare’s birthday by carrying sprigs of rosemary through the streets. Tradition has it that rosemary keeps the memory green (and there is actually some scientific evidence to back this up). The Bard himself has Claudius say something to this effect in his opening Hamlet speech. Maybe a sprig or two helped him to remember all those lines!

Call Me Crocus : Market Report

2011-03-12T16:44:00.007-05:00

That’s it. I’m a little spring flower. Don’t look for me until the weather starts to warm and the sun is shining, as in this morning. Pip and I decided that there were enough indications of spring to get out of the house and check on the Farmer’s Market at Grand Army Plaza.

Apart from plenty of enthusiasm and dogs (one of the few places that you can have your canine companion in tow and shop for groceries), it was mostly root veg and apples in the non-prepared department. The bakers where there, as were the turkey sausage and duck folks. Cheese, milk, yogurt and flowers were also in evidence. Was it a little disappointing? Yes, I suppose so. We bought some apples and whole grain rolls, bundled up for the brisk walk home (not so warm after all) and felt assured that winter will soon be a memory.

So here’s a document of the market in early spring (wanted to put in more photos, but apparently there’s a limit in blog-land). See how many dogs you can find and check out the sparseness of green and the proliferation of outerwear. This is an effort to ward of complacency for the time when we are ‘spoilt for choice’. Just imagine leafy greens in abundance, terrific tomatoes, basil and… don’t get me started. Pip and I need to learn how to live in the moment. Maybe part of the joy of this ‘moment’ is anticipating what’s ahead. Let’s hear it for SPRING!

Winter Squash: The Last Hurrah

2011-03-04T16:04:00.010-05:00

Please, tell me it’s true. Tell me it's time to wax nostalgic about winter (because spring is just around the corner). Am I sounding desperate? There’s a reason for that. I am. About this time every year I make broad, audible, boring pronouncements to the effect of “ this was the longest winter ever”. One way I overcome the last gasp of winter (it's still cold here) is to remember all the favorite winter dishes that require the oven to be on for extended periods and the cozy feeling that anything roasted engenders. Hence…. Winter Squash.

This entry is about Kobocha Squash, also known as Buttercup (that’s spring-y!). A scant bit of research revealed that this squash was introduced in 1541 by Portuguese sailors who brought it to Japan from Cambodia (how does Wiki know this stuff? I do source other references, but according to a recent study, Wikipedia is as accurate as most and you can’t beat how easy it is to access, a boon to bloggers of any stripe). So back to Cambodia… the Japanese shortened the name to Kobocha. (Now don’t deny that a little bit of background enhances flavor!)

What you also need to know is that these particular squashes ripen after being harvested and reach their peak 1.5-3 months after harvest. They are best stored in a slightly chilly spot that is also dry. But, my guess is that that you will purchase and eat your squash soon after you 'harvest' it at your supermarket or farmer's market. Pick a squash that is heavy for its size and has no soft spots. Remember the earlier entry about pumpkins? Yellow tints are fine and so are the ‘carbuncles’ that are actually an indication of sugars trying to escape.

Here’s a no-fail recipe for winter squash that will serve 4 or make for some very nice leftovers. This recipe is adapted from The Flexitarian Table by Peter Berley.

Equipment

Surface to chop on
Heavy knife
Heavy baking sheet (one with edges) or roasting pan or some sort of baking dish
Small bowl
Large prep bowl
Measuring stuff
Spoon and or spatula
Mitts! And a place to put something hot.

Ingredients

3-4 pounds of squash of your choice (I originally planned this with Delicata squash)
3 Tablespoons of Maple syrup
2 Tablespoons of Olive oil
3/4 teaspoon of chili powder or hot Spanish smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon of salt

Method

Place your oven rack at the 1/3 from the top spot.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Prepare your squash (review earlier entry here regarding tough squashes) by washing it, seeding it and cutting it into even slices.
In the small bowl mix together all the ingredients EXCEPT the squash.
In the large prep bowl, use your spoon or spatula to toss the slices with the syrup/olive oil/ spice mixture.
Spread the slices on the baking sheet in a single layer (use two dishes if you have to).
Place in oven and stir every 10 minutes or so. Roast until tender.
This can take up to 40 or 50 minutes depending on the squash. Don’t let it dry out! If it looks like it’s getting dry, add a tablespoon (or two) of water to the pan.

Soft and a little brown? It’s done! Don’t forget to have a heat resistant place to put your pan and don’t forget your mitts either!

This sounds like a big deal, but that’s only because these are detailed instructions. Read it all though once or twice and imagine the steps. You’ll see that it’s all pretty basic and then you can SPRING into action!

The Queen, Eternity and 170 for Dinner

2011-02-25T10:28:00.005-05:00

Oh my, I’ve been away from the blog for what seems like an eternity. But eternity is relative and I’d like to account for my absence, in part (because it was a long one), by telling you that I was visiting the Queen. Well, almost (I’m sure if I had given her fair warning I would have been invited for Tea).

“Eternity? The Queen?“ you ask? Be nice! It most probably will be an eternity before I’m invited to tea, but I did visit the Queen’s kitchen at Windsor Castle which has been in constant use for just about an eternity. Really. Its thought that the main kitchen (the queen does have a more manageable kitchen in her private apartments), has been in constant use for 750 years certainly, but possibly even upwards of 900 years. Our guide (this was a tour after all and no photography allowed… sadly) stated that it’s thought that the kitchen at Windsor is quite likely the world’s oldest and longest always-in-use kitchen. The kitchen itself dates from the 13^th Century. Windsor was originally built by William the Conqueror in the decade after the Norman conquest of 1066, and he must have had a place to cook.

So apart from eternity, what’s so cool about this massive kitchen? First of all, it’s spotless. The copper pans that rest on a shelf traveling the perimeter are the only decoration (although they were at one time used at various royal residences). The beautiful vaulted ceiling, roasting spits at each end and the vintage gas stoves don’t count as decorative. They are useful. Now don’t quote me here, but I remember the guide telling us (I was too in awe to take notes) that there are about 120 formal dinners a year, the chefs bring their own equipment (pots, knives etc), they can formally seat just over 170 guests (but actually cook for many more because the entourage and staff get hungry too), the refrigerator is the size of a small Manhattan apartment and there is no freezer. Blimey! No, I’m serious. With the exception of fish, all the provisions are sourced from the Queen’s estates and are very fresh. A foodies dream come true.

I have a few more entries planned from this trip so you don’t have to say “ ta ta for now” to the Queen just yet. If you are still curious about the kitchen, I came across this funny (as in funny-odd) site featuring old books (which is where I got the line illustration). They have something there about the kitchen at Windsor. It’s called Chest of Books and the link is embedded for your entertainment. Unfortunately, there are more than a few ads at the top of this site, but scroll down and check out not only the Windsor part, but also the link to “The Illustrated London Cookery Book” which dates merely to the 1800’s.

Eternity? The Queen? Think I’ll go make myself a cupa (British for ‘a cup of tea’) and imagine what it’s like to entertain 170 guests.

Rice: White Away!

2011-01-24T13:43:00.007-05:00

You can do this. I know you can! We’ll start with cooking long grain white because it takes the least amount of time and this way you will have no excuses (are you listening Gerald?).

As usual, get out your very best small to medium saucepan (not huge, the one in this photo is 6.5” across the top). We are going to start with something very simple, but don’t forget, making mistakes is the only way to knowledge (the harsh truth about learning anything), and we’re just talking rice! Rice may be the most ubiquitous foodstuff on the planet, but you can do this in the privacy of your own home and if you mess up, the worst possible outcome is having to give an extra scrub to your pan. Not terrible…. A trauma that is easy to recover from. Besides, that’s not going to happen! Trust me!

We’ll start with what I will call the Very Basic method. This is the way I first learned to cook rice, and if you don’t want to guess about quantity of water to rice, this is a good way to start.

Equipment
Small saucepan
Measuring cup and teaspoon

Ingredients
Long grain white rice
Salt

Method

Measure one cup of rice and set aside
Measure 2 cups of water into saucepan and place on heat
When the water is boiling add the cup of rice and one teaspoon of salt
Cover the pan tightly and reduce heat.
Simmer for 20-25 minutes.
At the end of this time the water should be absorbed and the rice tender.

This makes 4-6 servings. If you want more flavor, use chicken broth instead of water.

FYI: Leftover rice needs to be refrigerated. Left at room temperature for a few hours, it can grow harmful bacteria. Sushi rice is OK because it is coated with a rice vinegar/sugar mixture that retards this process. Likewise, acids such as other vinegars or lemon and lime juice do the trick.

Now go back into the archives for how to steam vegetables. You just cooked dinner!

Rice: The Hull-ish Truth

2011-01-17T16:20:00.003-05:00

Such headlines! And why not, eating is the daily news! Having left off with the promise of explaining various varieties of rice, and in the quest for the most basic and fundamental, let’s start with some rice anatomy.

If you are still paying attention and would like a little drawing to go along with this, return to the wiki site: Rice. You will see a drawing of a grain of rice. Once harvested, rice, with only the outer layer (the chaff) removed, is brown rice. The very same rice, processed differently, with both the bran and germ removed, becomes white rice. Because the brown rice has the germ and bran intact, it is chewier and has more flavor and nutrients. White rice cooks more quickly than brown because the outer layers have been removed.

Wild rice (the long black stuff in this illustration) really isn’t rice at all. It’s actually the seed of an aquatic grass that is related to the rice plant. Kind of like the odd cousin that shows up at family events, wild rice is often seen in the company of (either in boxes or bins or even cooked-with) regular rice. Wild rice can be quite expensive and cooking it along with brown rice is a way of maintaining the acquaintance without breaking the bank.

“Varieties”, you ask? Beyond the brown/white thing, there are also long grain and short grain varieties. Indica, the long grain type, tends to produce separate grains when cooked. Japonica, the short grain type, produces rice with round grains that tend to stick together (Why do I keep thinking of family dynamics? Time to appreciate the differences!). Both are lovely in their own way, but because rice is often cooked to accompany another dish, it’s nice to know how each particular variety is going to get along with the rest of the edible attendees!

Enough information for one day? This stuff is supposed to be offered in ‘small bites’, so stay tuned (yet again) for more rice-y news.

Rice: Geek Report

2011-01-07T19:53:00.005-05:00

I thought I’d start out the New Year with something very very basic. You’ve probably guessed what it is (the title of this entry being a very large tip-off). Rice. Like most fundamentals, rice is simple and complicated all at the same time. To get started I consulted my pal, Harold McGee (if someone actually knows him and he’s age appropriate, please send him this link). Harold writes that there are over 100,000 distinct varieties throughout the world. Daunting! That said, we have to start somewhere and let’s not get overwhelmed and risk missing out on an important kitchen staple. This will probably take a few entries given the territory to cover (as in the whole world). We’ll begin with the history (so that you can fully appreciate what’s in front of you), launch into the different types and then dive into a simple method for cooking as our final. Once this ‘course’ is completed, you will be able to put on a pot of rice, start the rest of the meal and magically everything will be ready before you know it. Really! Ready? With Harold’s help, I’m going to do the research and give you the equivalent of CliffsNotes for your culinary edification. This is not cheating! You might even want to do some extra-credit research for yourself once we get started!

Rice in History

According to Harold, short grain rice was probably domesticated around 7000 BCE in the Yangtze River Valley of south-central China. Longer grain rice originated a little later (but still way before anyone even thought of Rice Crispies) in Southeast Asia. Yet another distinct rice, with red bran (the second part of the outer layer), has been grown in the west of Africa for at least 1500 years. Pretty historic stuff! Just another illustration of how cooking and civilization have been working hand in hand forever- just like rice and steamed vegetables!

Traveling from Asia to Europe, rice made a stop in Persia (Iran), where it was cultivated there by Arabs who also figured out how to prepare it. By the 8th Century in Spain, Moors were growing rice and it had also traveled to Sicily. Next (remember these are ‘CliffsNotes’) come the Spanish and Portuguese who introduced it to the Americas in the 16th and 17th centuries. The expertise of African slaves is considered responsible for commercial planting in South Carolina starting in 1685 (not to mention traditional rice and bean dishes). Most of the rice produced now in the United States comes from Arkansas, the lower Mississippi region, Texas and California. No containing a good thing!

Get this: rice is second only to maize (corn) in world production, but second to none in human consumption (critters prefer corn). According to Wiki, rice provides more than one fifth of the calories consumed worldwide by humans!

Crying ‘Uncle’ yet?! Let me just wrap up this entry (I hope you have been taking notes), by saying that if rice has been around this long, it’s high time we cooked a pot for ourselves. Time also to get acquainted with at least a few of those 100,000 possibilities. Stayed tuned for- Rice: Varieties Unleashed!

Entertaining Creatures

2010-12-31T18:02:00.004-05:00

Brooklyn was slammed with a blizzard almost (or was it actually?) a week ago (it’s all a blur, and slush and snow bank). As a result, the long bare azalea bush outside my kitchen window has been decorated with pom-poms. I know that the word pom-poms went out of fashion millennia ago when cheerleading joined the ranks of the un- cool, but this silly word describes perfectly what was hanging from delicate branches suspended over major snow.

So pom-poms? These days? Nope! Birds! Tiny, puffed-up-against-the-chill birds. I’ve been laboring over what to write about next and admit to being not a little derailed by the season and snow. Exhausted not only by the elements but also by all the entertaining as well (the stew with the burdock was a hit), I’m ready to chill (metaphorically speaking). But how can you resist unexpected guests that look plenty hungry? I don’t usually feed birds. Complications generally ensue. Apart from uneaten seeds creating unwelcome and unidentifiable flora in the spring, I would hate to think that I had influenced anyone with feathers against the trip to Florida. Florida sounds pretty good about now. But these creatures made the decision to hang around ages ago and everyone is allowed a rash decision once in a while.

How to set the table for a bird: If you can’t find the bird feeder (I suspect mine is under the snow), pull out a sheet pan and add seed. Done! Birds are delightful guests that rarely complain and always show their appreciation by providing entertainment and, in this case, by cleaning their ‘plate’. I doubt very much that any remnants will be left come spring. What’s more? They entertain too! Apart from the Pom-Poms, there’s been a Cardinal, Morning Dove and a family of Starlings. Such gracious hosts and all I have to do is watch!

Happy New Year everyone. I hope your year is filled with plenty of easy meals and many entertaining moments.

Peanuts and Raisins

2010-12-24T16:47:00.006-05:00

Sigh, the (almost) last card got in the mail today (let’s call it a New Year’s card), most of the presents are wrapped, work stuff is pretty much wrapped-up as well, the tree is up, cards are scattered throughout the house and I even managed to go grocery shopping. Why the ‘laundry list’? And what does this have to do with peanuts and raisins? I’m entertaining tonight…. as in having a few friends over (at this moment in time my ability to BE entertaining is up for serious debate). I’m out of steam. While jostling my way through the isles of the Coop this afternoon I passed these Spanish peanuts and what my mother used to call ‘Sultanas’. This was her default dish, and it always works. After the crush of the last few weeks, I need some no-brainer party food.

What you will need:

A bowl
Peanuts
Raisins
Friends

Method:

Put stuff in bowl and serve.

Now how refreshing was that?! The party has started! Please tell me that life does not need to be elaborate. Why use exhaustion as an avoidance mechanism? Friends will bring stuff (if properly trained- and/ or raised right) and it’s time to relax.

I have some carrots, Persian Cucumbers, celery, cherry tomatoes and bell peppers ready to keep company with bean dip (which seems doable now that I’ve got the peanut thing under control), and if my energy holds up I may even make a frittata or some little toasts with something on top (rub toasted slices with the cut side of a garlic clove and drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle a little kosher salt). Oh! Then there’s always the cheese sticks…

Are you beginning to see how this works? Once chilled, getting ready isn’t such a chore. Pretty soon the neighbors will be here doing what friends do… eating a bit, drinking a bit and being very happy to wish each other all good wishes for the season.

All good wishes to you too! Now where did I put that Christmas CD of Ella and Louis?

Burdock Root, My First Time

2010-12-05T16:38:00.006-05:00

Well, why not? You only live once! As I once confessed to all of you, my two vices are shoes and cookbooks. These days, I’m favoring the later. Cheaper, and always a comfort, the latest impulse buy (the Coop knows what’s it’s doing… cookbooks are right where everyone waits in line) was The Flexitarian Table, by Peter Berley. Perfect! Entertaining these days is a challenge on many fronts. One friend can’t tolerate dairy, another doesn’t eat meat or poultry and my pocketbook prefers more vegetables than anything. Flexitarian sounds like ‘one size fits all’.

Peter Berely’s definition:

Flex·i·tar·i·an (n) 1. A person who is mainly a vegetarian but who occasionally eats fish or meat. 2. Someone who is not a vegetarian but enjoys meatless meals.

So, where were we? Burdock! (almost forgot) This root is destined for an ‘Autumn Stew’ and will keep company with some winter squash, mushrooms, ginger, carrots and celery. AND, because I always do as I am told (as in on page 256), I looked for a root that was firm and no more than 1 inch at the thickest part. I’m going to scrub the dickens (not a direct quote) out of this root (which, by the way, is full of antioxidants) with a stiff brush in a basin of cold water. Apparently our burdock root is a member of the daisy family, which is something to think about when it’s freezing outside and definitely not sandal weather!

Pumpkin Pie and The Importance of Being Earnest

2010-11-27T12:18:00.008-05:00

Couldn’t help but consider this title as I struggled with my Pâte Briseé (aka pie crust). I knew from all the warnings (must have pea sized lumps…. don’t over work it…) that the first attempt was not stellar. So… another recipe, this time not my sister’s (that left out salient information such as how much salt or sugar), but Julia’s. As usual, her concise instructions and the accompanying photo illustrations in The Way To Cook, got me through the second batch of pie shells. These were keepers.

Ok, pie shells sorted it was on to a recipe for my Long-Island-Cheese-Pumpkin-Aren’t-I-Special-Puree. This stuff was very very moist and I should have known better. Having decided to go with the flow and follow Julia’s recipe for a ‘fluffy soufflé’ filling (first mistake) and (to my dubious credit) cutting back on the milk, even I smelled danger and baked it longer than required….ICK! Total flop. Here I was, photo of modest pies ready on the digital card, prepared to write a clever blog about how the dough was acceptable but the filling totally fine. Conceit knowing no bounds, I even imagined how my earnest attempt at doing everything from scratch wouldn’t be perfect, but would reap the rewards of real effort. WRONG! Arg! Ouch! Another pang of regret that Cathy (my pastry chef sibling) wasn’t here to watch my (stooped in front of the oven) back.

So, the ‘earnest’ part of Thanksgiving? Turns out it wasn’t all about me and my earnest pie. As a perfect illustration of the obvious, it was about gathering with neighbors and friends, all of us enjoying everything no matter what. My hosts were discretion itself and I hope that they have disposed of any leftover pie without qualms. Next time I’ll practice before traveling next door via the Road of Good Intentions!

I hope that all of you survived Thanksgiving unscathed, with culinary egos intact!

Cranberry Sauce as Avoidance Mechanism

2010-11-24T12:20:00.009-05:00

Thanksgiving is almost here and if you are still left with the ‘good guest’ question of ‘what shall I bring’, here’s the easiest thing yet. Now don’t be daunted if your host demurs, it may take 15 years or so (I’ll tell you about that another time), but you will eventually win the battle over the canned variety of Cranberry (faux) Sauce. I know that there are some amongst us who have a sentimental attachment to opening two sides of a can and listening to the sucking noise that accompanies jelly emergence. Hang in there, eventually the canned stuff will lose its celebrity and your homemade effort will be appreciated for its inherent cranberry-ness. So here we go. As in all things, there are always variations on a theme, but this is easy, basic and always a hit. In the time it took for me to take the ingredients photo, the sauce was done. Voila! Here’s how:

Ingredients you will need:

A bag of cranberries (usually 12 oz.)
1 cup of sugar
1 cup of orange juice (or a combination of water and oj)
2 teaspoons of grated orange rind (give or take)

Equipment:

Colander
Measuring cups (wet and dry, or not-this not a precise recipe)
Your best saucepan (heavy is good)
Something to grate with and some wax paper
Something to get the juice out of your oranges
A spoon
And lastly, an apron. Cranberries stain!

Method:

Wash your berries and while doing so, pick out and discard any nasty looking ones.
Wash your oranges and using a grater (over wax paper or one of those flexible mats), grate off some rind from your oranges. Avoid the white pith under the skin, it’s bitter.
Juice the oranges and measure. If you don’t have a full cup, add water to get a cup’s worth of liquid.
Put your prepared ingredients and the cup of sugar into the saucepan (in other words put everything together).
Stir and bring to a boil.
When just at a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the berries pop (about 10 minutes).

Done! Once the berries have popped you can turn off the heat and let your sauce cool down. It will thicken as it cools. You just made sauce and maybe even a mini act of subversion for the holiday table. This sauce needs to be refrigerated but lasts a long time (that is if there is any left!).

Did I forget the “avoidance mechanism” part? Now that I’m warmed-up, it’s time to tackle that pastry dough! Have a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Say “Cheese” (pumpkin)

2010-11-21T20:49:00.005-05:00

Thursday is almost here. Because I am going next door for Thanksgiving (I challenge anyone to beat that commute!), I have been absolved of the early morning panic to stuff and time a turkey. Instead, I am in charge of ‘something green’, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie.

In anticipation of my day as ‘slacker-cook’, I purchased a Long Island Cheese Pumpkin at the Farmer’s Market. How could I not after being told that this is the one all the chefs use for making anything pumpkin? Apparently the bright orange Jack-O-Lantern variety is more for carving than eating. This Cheese Pumpkin wasn’t as pretty as its day glow cousins, but I had recently learned (this is what happens when one is a WNYC addict) that the bumps on the outside are sugars trying to escape. I now have a new appreciation for ugly, warty winter squashes.

Anxious to get a head start (because I am stressed about the whole pastry thing), I have already turned this ‘beautiful on the inside’ Cheese pumpkin into puree. Puree is basically something that is subjected to the food processor (or anything else to achieve the same result) until it resembles baby food. With this pumpkin, I cut it into quarters, scraped out the seeds and stringy bits and baked it until it was soft enough to be easy work for the processor. There are now a few zip lock bags in the freezer waiting for their next incarnation.

In the meantime, the seeds were washed to rid themselves of as much of the pumpkin yuck as possible and then left to languish on a baking sheet for a day (well, actually two days). As a quick appetizer, they were tossed with a little olive oil, salt and pepper, and baked on the sheet at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes. I knew they were done when popping action was heard in the oven. Very nice.

Acorn Squash: Part deux in three parts.

2010-11-13T23:31:00.007-05:00

Now that you are on a first name basis with Acorn Squash (and keep in mind, our acorn squash stands in for winter squashes in general, I chose an acorn squash because my guess is that you have seen it before many times and were just too shy to introduce yourself), let’s get started with preparation.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. We are about to bake/steam. Make sure your rack is about two thirds up from the bottom and find your oven mitts and a baking dish that will hold both halves of your squash.

Wash your squash!!! Don’t be afraid to go after it with a brush and give it a good scrub. This is your moment to take charge.

Cut in half from just below the stem to pointy end (don’t attempt to cut the stem, your knife will never forgive you). This is actually the most difficult part of the whole operation. Almost by definition, out winter squash pals are thick skinned and will put up a good fight. Be prepared with a cleaver and mallet or pop it in the oven (375 degrees) until soft and more yielding. OR… and I just recently tried this, pop it in the microwave for about a minute on high (just to be safe, use a sharp fork and score a few holes along the line where you plan on cutting). Not soft enough? Try another 30 seconds… keep doing this bit by bit (we are trying to avoid a microwave explosion). Either oven method will make cutting the squash easier (or even possible… this really is the most challenging part of the whole squash experience).

Do you have two halves? Great! Now scrap out the seeds and stringy bits.

Rub the cut surface with some oil (any neutral flavored oil will do the trick), and place cut side down in a baking dish.

Add about 1/2 inch of water and using your mitts, carefully place in the oven. Bake until soft. This should take about 30 minutes. The water will have evaporated and the bottom will have begun to color.

That’s it. Done! You did it! (don't forget your mitts and place the very hot dish on something that can take it) Now all you have to do it add a little butter, salt and pepper…. Or…. A bit of maple syrup, honey or brown sugar… and perhaps a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg. Anything goes.

Here’s a link to a web site that may not have the charm of this entry ;) but has a boatload of squash information.

Summer VS Winter (squash)

2010-11-07T23:08:00.005-05:00

Don’t get me started. I, for one, am not thrilled about the prospect of winter (and anyone could feel it today… burr). I can get excited about slowly cooked meals such as soups and stews, roasted vegetables, pizza… (OK, OK, so winter is not all bad)...and amongst these slow cookers are Winter Squash.

This picture has a winter squash and a summer squash (well, two of the later). According to Harold McGee (remember? he’s my favorite food geek), the Naragansett Indians used the word “squash” to mean “ a green thing eaten raw”. I guess our native forebears liked summer squash best. Zucchini can be eaten raw. If you’d rather have it cooked, it doesn’t take long (less heat in the kitchen) and, apart from the stem end, it’s all edible. Summer squashes are best when picked young and compared to their tough skinned cousins, can only be kept for a short time.

Our model for the winter variety is an Acorn Squash. Winter squash, with its tough dry skin, can be stored much longer than its summery counterpart. Although Winter squashes are generally available year ‘round, they are best now, at the end of fall. These hardy members of the curcubit family can be stored for months (in cool and dry conditions).

Keep your hat on for the next entry (it’s getting chilly after all) and simplest dish ever… baked acorn squash. Start to consider if you want it sweet or savory and find your mittens (the oven variety).

Anatomy of a Ploughman’s or, Meet the Bishop

2010-10-21T22:50:00.008-04:00

Just checked in with the blog. What I thought was a month’s break has almost become two months! As a friend pointed out tonight, I left off with basil and here we are skirting winter and in full throttle fall.

No excuses beyond real life encroaching and a trip to the UK. Wales? Again? Yes… and because this is the place (as in food blog) to talk about food, I want to tell you what makes me feel the most transported when visiting England. A Ploughman’s.

Our last day in Wales, we took a day trip to Ross-on-Wye and lunched at the King’s Head Hotel. This was my last chance for the quintessential pub meal (which, if you haven’t caught on is what we are talking about).

As in anything, attention and earnestness can present the same breadth of variety as snowflakes. No two Ploughman’s are alike. Ingredients may resemble each other on the menu, but quality and the use of local ingredients can make all the difference.

If you are fortunate enough to find yourself in an English pub (as in this picture), here’s my advice. Order a glass of the local lager and a Ploughman’s. If you are in a place that is graced with enough culinary consciousness to make this basic staple into something sublime, a large rasher of very fresh bread will be accompanied by some local cheeses (in this case some Stinking Bishop and two other cheeses that were equally delicious but not so memorably named), some chutney and a pickled onion or two (this one was thoughtfully cut into quarters so that I didn’t have to embarrass myself by trying to negotiate something so round and slippery with a knife and fork….. in England one NEVER uses one’s fingers), a polite portion of coleslaw and a bit of fresh salad. Civilization on a plate. Basic, satisfying and, if local ingredients are used, even surprising. The cheese was a revelation. I’ll never pass on the opportunity to encounter some Stinking Bishop again.

Basil and Heaven

2010-09-12T22:18:00.006-04:00

Not quite sure where this summer went, but today it was cool enough to want the windows closed. Time to harvest the wealth of basil still outside and capture some summer souvenirs as consolation for when the weather is truly chilly. According to Wiki, the ancient Egyptians and Greeks believed that basil would open the gates of heaven for people passing on. Makes sense to me. Basil itself is heavenly.

If you don’t have a pot of this miracle in your garden or on your fire escape, you may still be able to pick up a nice fat bunch at the farmer’s market. It’s easy to preserve a bit of heaven (well, you can start with basil and philosophize later over sauce). Wash and dry (as in take a tea towel or salad spinner to get off any excess moisture) a large quantity of basil leaves and process them in a food processor with some extra virgin olive oil. Do this by packing the food processor with the prepared leaves and slowly (with the blade running) drizzle oil into the tube at the top. No need to measure, you want the consistency to be creamy, not too dry but soupy either. Done? Put your simple pesto into an ice cube tray and when it’s fully frozen, store the frozen basil cubes in a well-marked (date it!) bag in the freezer.

You now have passage to heaven! When the weather is truly cold, you can reclaim your basil (thaw it gently) and add it as is to soups or sauces. Or make Genoese Pesto Sauce! Follow the link until I can write again with a recipe tailored for first time pesto makers.

PS - You may have noticed (at least I hope you have) that my entries have been a little sparse lately. I haven’t given up on the blog, but will be making entries a little less frequently for a while. It’s almost a year since I embarked on Kitchen Primer, and I’m way way past 100 entries. I love doing this, but there are many things vying for attention (not the least being Sylvia, the prodigal daughter… Maybe I can get her interested in some pesto making!).

It’s a Tomato! It’s a Cherry! It’s a Cape Gooseberry!

2010-08-30T23:10:00.007-04:00

Also known as a Ground Cherry, this super little fruit (that’s a relative of a tomatillo) references Superman in more ways than one. Apart from having a ‘Cape’ attached to it, this cherry sized fruit contains a chemical, Cryptoxanthin. But fear not! This is not Kryptonite! Cryptoxanthin converts to vitamin A, which equates with its having anti-oxidant properties. I’m sure that Superman would have enjoyed these as a snack. He would have been able to swoop down in either North or South America where these are native. When you fly around and have superpowers, this is the bonus you get for having to fight bad guys most of the time. Maybe he picked some for Lois to use in a salad or enough for her to make preserves or a pie (who knows? maybe Superman likes to cook too!).

You and I don’t need a cape or superpowers to try these. All that’s required is a willingness to try something new and a trip to the farmer’s market. Just peel back the husk and eat the berry inside. You’ll be able to report back to your friends on this planet that it’s slightly tart, slightly sweet and very mild mannered.

Uhibbu Lemon Cucumbers!

2010-08-23T16:15:00.007-04:00

Saturday’s farmer’s market at Grand Army Plaza was packed! Pip, Pookie (Pip’s pal has been staying with us) and I ran into canine and foodie pals alike. This is one of the few venues where we can all shop together. Sterling’s people, Cat and Dave, insisted that I take home some ‘lemon cucumbers’. Who could refuse that sort of directive? We had already joined Habibi (Arabic for “Beloved”) and his person, Glenn. Glenn is a very well traveled man, who, of all the off-leash crowd (wonder what the dogs call us?) could probably explain BCE (we are about to get to that) and a few other things as well. But, for all Glenn’s erudition, lemon cucumbers were a mystery for him as well. We had a mission! One farm stand later, culinary adventures bagged, dogs and off-leash acquaintances headed back to our respective kitchens and, as it turns out, research sources. Glenn and I had the twin impulse to get home and consult greater food minds.

How do I know this? Here’s the link that Glenn sent about Lemon Cucumbers.

My favorite source, McGee, writes that cucumbers were domesticated in India around 1500 BCE which is an awfully long time ago (what’s BCE? Here’s a reference from Wiki and one from About.com). A cucumber is in the squash /cucurbit family, keeping company with, well, squashes and watermelons! Apparently, watermelons and cucumbers are related, a good illustration of pointing out the obvious…. as in, duh… of course! It never really occurred to me before, but makes complete sense now. What isn’t obvious are these cucumbers.

Make sure to wash off any little prickles left on the outside and eat whole like an apple. Alternately, if you are feeling fancy or want to share, slice them and pull out some fancy imported salt to use sparingly as a seasoning. That’s it! They taste nothing like a lemon, so it’s not about looks! It is about a refreshing, mild cucumber that is easy to eat by itself or use (skin and all) as an easy addition to a seasonal summer salad. Ah… uhibbu lemon cucumbers! (Glenn tells me that this is the companion verb to Habibi. ”Uhibbu” is the Arabic verb for ‘I love’. Apparently Glenn’s dog is a pure-bred noun.)

Monster Revealed

2010-08-20T17:11:00.003-04:00

I love it when things happen the way they’re supposed to. This happened yesterday. Just as promised (and as in any good scary story) our monster shed his ‘scales’ only to expose an inner sweet self. The fruit looks like corn-on-the-cob. The ‘kernels’, exposed after the scales peel away, start to protrude and you can either pick them from the ‘cob’ or use a fork to tease them into a bowl. In this case, two bowls.

Sylvia’s review? “Tastes like gummy candy.” My take? A beautiful blend of pineapple and banana flavors. Not scary at all, just thoroughly tropical and monstrously delicious.

Waiting for the Monster (fruit)

2010-08-16T15:22:00.005-04:00

Here’s another addition to the annals of weird fruit. Well, weird to us. My guess is that this tropical fruit might be standard fare if you lived near it's rainforest origins in Mexico or Panama. This particular fruit (the one in the photograph) was purchased at the Food Coop earlier today and was grown in Florida. That's not exactly meeting locavore requirements, but it didn't need a passport either. I hope you’ll forgive me! I can only explain my desire for the exotic by saying that small adventures are substituting for bigger ones these days.

But back to our Monster… this morning I passed over one of its companions because the skin wasn’t looking as smooth and unblemished as this one (using the usual principles for fruit buying). Well, it turns out that the less attractive bin mate was closer to being ripe. This is a work in progress. Just as in an earlier entry about Ugli Fruit, we are going to have to revisit this edible adventure when it’s ripe. In the mean time, the instructions wrapped around our monster (Creature from the Black Lagoon comes to mind, which was, by the way, one of the first movies to be released in 3D), tells me to keep it upright, stemside up in a glass, until the scales drop off by themselves. We are in this together! I’ll report back when Monstera Deliciocia transforms into a tasty tropical delicacy.

Planets, Peaches, Donuts and Emperors

2010-08-12T15:25:00.008-04:00

Unlike the core of Saturn that is filled with iron, nickel, silicon and oxygen compounds, Saturn Peaches are filled with fruit that has delicate almond undertones (the almond is a relative of the peach) and is sweeter than the usual variety. What are the other advantages (apart from not requiring space travel)? They are not as fuzzy as a regular peach and the stone (pit) doesn’t cling to the inside flesh the same way it does in an ordinary peach. Less mess at the core. They are a hardier shape, easier to hold and easier to squeeze into your lunchbox!

Saturn peaches were introduced to the Western World from China in 1869. A Saturn peach in China during the 1800’s, could only be planted in the royal grounds of The Emperor. There was a lot of unrest in China at this time. It’s nice to think that once in a while there was a break for these lovely peaches… a donut break! Which is the other name that you will find applied to these lovely fruits.

Mother Earth News has an article called Top 10 Reasons to Try a Donut Peach. They also have an article, ‘Saturn’ Peaches, that has a little more about how this Chinese fruit tree was adapted to be more cold hardy. All of which explains why this peach, with out-of-this-world sweetness, is now readily available to Emperors and mere commoners here on earth.

Adventure! Mystery! Dragon Fruit!

2010-08-09T19:31:00.007-04:00

Who could resist? Sylvia had an appointment close to China Town and after we had taken care of business, it was either go home or seek adventure. We had no way of knowing that our decision would lead us to this unearthly discovery. OK, OK…. we were in search of something new, and this being New York, you can pretty much bet that if you want an adventure, all you need to do is put one foot in front of the other and go!

These were on fruit stands everywhere. By the time we had explored the Chinese market underneath the Manhattan Bridge, enjoyed soup dumplings at Joe’s Shanghai Restaurant (our server was very happy to demonstrate the proper eating method… that is after we survived the agony of watching our table mates consume massive quantities before our order arrived), and discovered a beautiful shop dedicated to chopsticks (I have already placed my Christmas request), we were on a roll. So far everything had been delightful the thrill of adventure made passing over these rare looking fruits impossible.

Actually, after a bit of research, it turns out that Dragon Fruit is not all that rare. You probably won’t find it at your local supermarket, and because it’s tropical you certainly won’t find it at the Farmer’s Market (I do feel a bit sheepish about buying a ‘passport required’ food, but we were in discovery mode!). It turns out that South America, Asia, Australia and Hawaii all produce pitaya. The fruit of a cactus plant, this pink and green one is called Sweet Pitaya. According to a Dragon Fruit web site, these beautiful fruits require bats to successfully pollinate. The flowers necessary for pollination bloom at night, and bats are the night shift! This is possibly the first time the thought of bees needing to sleep has even occurred to me.

Our impulse purchase was similar to Kiwi and mild. I enjoyed my half, Sylvia wasn’t so keen, but did not find it objectionable either. Her half is in the fridge cooling down… we are going to see if it’s more appealing chilled. The reward for being adventurous is eating a fruit that is full of fiber, antioxidants and vitamins. Low in calories too!

End of the day assessment? All in all a successful adventure and another food mystery solved!

Not Quite Nicoise

2010-08-05T15:38:00.008-04:00

It’s still very hot in Brooklyn (who says there’s no such thing as Global Warming?). This means that we are still in our ‘Salad Days’. Salad in summer is the counterpart to soup in winter. You can make something special to recipe, or simply scour the supplies on hand to invent something yourself.

A Nicoise salad is a famous main course ‘composed’ salad that has potatoes, beans, eggs, tomatoes, tuna, anchovies, capers and its namesake, Nicoise olives. All this wonderful stuff rests on lettuce lightly dressed with a lemony dressing. Sounds great, doesn’t it? (OK, you can skip the anchovies, but you are really missing something… that goes for the capers too)

That said, rather than get all worked up about making an authentic recipe, I’d like to encourage you to make a Not Quite Nicoise. Get out your biggest bowl and start with the main structure, lettuce and some sort of dressing (here’s the Dijon dressing that we learned about). Now gather anything you like (within reason, let’s not get too silly). Most pantries have a can of tuna (drain it before using), an onion (purple? peeled and sliced very thin?), a sliced hard-boiled egg, maybe some beans and potatoes. Blanch the beans the way we cooked the Edamame. A simple guide to cooking potatoes follows. Get ready to assemble the ingredients and guess what? You’ve almost got a meal! All you need to do now is text a few friends and have them to stop by the bakery to get a nice loaf of bread. Wait until they arrive, dress the lettuce just before serving and compose (yourself)!

Boiled Potatoes
(I recommend small red or yellow ones with thin skins. Try to buy spuds of a similar size)

Wash your potatoes and cut out any ‘eyes’ (small sprouts)
You can cook them whole or cut them in quarters or similar sized pieces
Place potatoes in a deep pot with cold water to cover and a large pinch of salt
Bring to a boil (large rolling bubbles)
Cook until tender. A skewer or sharp knife will go in easily when they are done. Try not to cook them into mush.
Drain and let cool. This can be done way in advance and can be refrigerated in a tightly covered container for up to 3 days.

Footnote: I didn’t mention peeling, because I like the skins. It’s your choice!

Whisk-y Business

2010-07-30T16:24:00.007-04:00

FYI, this is a whisk (well, two of them and a bowl. The later of which is usually employed at the same time).

If this blog is truly dedicated to the basics, then this is something you should know about. On top of the list of essential kitchen tools, the whisk keeps company with a good knife and a spoon. Craig Claiborne, (who is famous for educating Americans in all things kitchen) touts a medium wire whisk second only to a cast iron pan when he writes of “The Most Basic Equipment for a Small BASIC Kitchen”.

New Kitchen Primer was inspired by Craig Claiborne’s Kitchen Primer, which is a small volume that was originally published in 1996 by Portland House. I got my copy used via EBay, and it’s really brand new (didn’t cost much either). If you can get your hands on this compact volume, I highly recommend it. Trends in cooking change as much as hemlines (or if that analogy doesn’t work for you ….as much as cell phone technology), so his recipes may seem a little heavy in the cream and butter department. That said, the list of kitchen essentials and the advice on use of equipment is great. Nice little illustrations too.

But back to whisks. I’ll risk being a bore and remind you, once again, to buy the best you can afford at a proper kitchen supply. A cheap whisk doesn’t work very well and will not last. A quality whisk will last forever and will always be a pleasure to use. Just think about how amazing you will feel as you use your beautiful new kitchen tool to ‘whisk up’ a lovely salad dressing or some eggs or even some whipped cream… and that’s just the beginning.

Also FYI, when you are ‘whisking something up’, do yourself a favor and use a much larger bowl or vessel than you think you need. This will equate to more freedom of movement (sometimes you really want to get some momentum going) and most certainly less mess.

You're ready for wisk-y business!

Living with Zest

2010-07-27T16:39:00.008-04:00

It is possible to live without zest. Why one would want to is another matter entirely. Unlike the profound variety, as in joie de vivre (joy of life) zest, citrus zest is not dependent on mood. It’s simply dependent on a handy little tool aptly named a ‘zester’. Scrape its row of tiny blades along the rind of an orange, lime or lemon and voila! You have zest! This is so easy that it might even make you feel zesty in a more life altering way.

Bakers often use zest in cakes or other delights (maybe there is a direct relation after all), but for a beginning zest maker, here’s a recipe from Food and Wine that uses lemon zest in a salad dressing. (For all you non-cook cooks, this simple dressing might liven up your salad repertoire.)

Tools

Measuring spoons
A zester (review kitchen-purchasing advice and go to a real cook shop. This will be your zester for life)
A sharp knife or something else that chops
A whisk (if you don’t have one… same advise goes. Buy the best you can afford.)
A small bowl

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons of lemon juice
1 teaspoon of finely chopped lemon zest
1 Tablespoon of honey
1/2 teaspoon of chopped Thyme

1/4 cup of extra-virgin olive oil
Your best salt and some freshly ground pepper to taste

Method

In a small bowl, whisk together the juice, zest, thyme and honey.
Whisk in olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Find some salad greens and you are living with zest!!!

PS There are plenty of links in this one for review. This is the 141st blog entry...Can you believe it?!

Radishes and Celebrity

2010-07-22T16:36:00.006-04:00

The Greeks described the radish by naming it Raphanus, which means “quickly appearing”(they grow really fast). The common name, “Radish” is derived from a Latin word that means ‘root’. These lovely crunchy root vegetables have been around for a long time.

The Greeks and Romans weren’t the only civilizations keen on the radish. They turn up (actually they are relatives of the turnip… pun intended!) all over Asia and Europe. There are all sorts of radishes and varieties for every season. You’ll find the little red ones now, at the Farmer’s Market, and if you happen to be in Mexico in winter, they make a grand appearance then too. On December 23 in Oaxaca, large red radishes are turned into sculptures for the ‘Night of the Radishes’ festival.

Who could have guessed at such celebrity?

If you are just a common, garden variety radish eater, look for smooth skinned, firm radishes that still have their tops (which are also edible) attached. Radishes like those in today’s photo are best when they’re small. Wash and eat them raw and if you want to celebrate just a little, dress them up with a simple dip.

Gowanus Botanical Garden Report: A Tomato!!

2010-07-17T14:19:00.003-04:00

Well, this is it, possibly the world’s smallest tomato farm. What you see is the season’s entire tomato production. Honestly? I’m surprised that we got this far. Historically the squirrels get first pick and one determined garden beast would have annihilated the entire crop. Maybe next year I will hazard a larger, more productive plant!

Did I mention that tomatoes are actually a fruit? We like to think of them as vegetables because of their low sugar content and their high amount of glutamic acid and sulfur aromas, chacteristics that are more common in savory foods (pardon the food geek moment).

So apart from taste, what’s so great about a tomato? It’s very rich in vitamin C and delivers a big dose of the antioxidant carotenoid lycopene, which is thought to fight cancers.

I’ve written about tomatoes before, so if you are feeling like a review, here are the links:

Hercules and Hydroponics
Quick! Before it’s Winter!

What follows is a non-cook cooking recipe and my favorite summer salad. It’s called Caprese and is always wonderful.

Caprese Salad

Alternate slices of fresh tomato and fresh mozzarella on a plate
Drizzle (control yourself!) with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar (or skip the vinegar)
Season with freshly ground pepper, a dash of your best salt and fresh Basil Leaves

Bon Appitto!

The Noble Carrot

2010-07-15T12:55:00.006-04:00

Why noble? Well, in spite of the fact that they are always around and rarely made to feel special, you never hear a carrot complain. Such is the lot of one who is always on the scene, there when you need them, and easy to keep in the recesses of your refrigerator.

One of the main players in any culinary life, carrots are good for cooking and equally good for eating as-is. They can be a regular addition to your non-cook cooking repertoire.

Wash (a little scrub with a brush may help) or peel, and you have something to eat… very basic and very good. Add a little peanut butter and your carrot is almost a meal. We can postpone the many ways to cook carrots until the weather cools down (it’s very hot here in Brooklyn). In the mean time, you can either prepare them as you need them or prepare them a few at a time so that, like a loyal and devoted pal, you have someone waiting for you unconditionally. Store pre-prepared carrots in the fridge in some sort of closed container.

Carrot shopping? Look for firm brightly colored carrots that are not sprouting. Raw carrots are an excellent source of vitamin A, potassium and fiber. They may not make your hair curly (didn’t your mother always tell you that?), but they are good for your eyesight (she wasn’t kidding with that one).

Just as a footnote, the bags of ‘baby carrots’ that are always at the supermarket, are actually big carrots really really whittled down. The sometimes-white looking surface just means that they are a tiny bit dried out… but still edible, so don’t make this an excuse not to ‘eat your carrots’!

Raspberries and Entanglement

2010-07-09T20:34:00.004-04:00

So get this! Raspberries inspired Velcro! Now there’s a ‘learn something new everyday’ moment! I wanted to encourage you to eat more berries and felt that I might get boring and end up doing a repeat of the last entry. You know, the one that heralded the virtues of blueberries.

Actually, raspberries are way more fragile than blueberries. Again, look for firm (and in this case glossy) fruit that is loosely packed (to discourage mold, which you should be on the look-out for) and eat ASAP!!!! (That’s As Soon As Possible) These guys are very tender. Cathy (the pastry chef sister) tells me that if you eat them little cell by little cell, you will experience small bursts of flavor on your happy tongue.

Cherie contradicts me by saying that thistles, not raspberries, inspired Velcro!

Controversy is always energizing. Harold McGee writes that Caneberries (the berry family that Raspberries belong to) are composite fruits, meaning that they consist of many many small entities that are held together by an ‘entanglement’ (now there’s a word that you might have fun with) of hairs…. hence the Velcro inspiration.

But you know what? Thistles or Raspberries being the source of inspiration or not, these amazinging beautiful and flavorful berries are worth eating. They are good for you (one of the biggest deliverers of anti-oxidants) and a delight to eat. AND they are currently in season. We had them last night with vanilla ice cream. Dessert couldn’t have been simpler or better!

Blueberries

2010-07-07T13:24:00.006-04:00

I’m skipping a clever title for this straightforward food. No cooking necessary. Store in the refrigerator. Lightly wash just before eating. Look for firm, unwrinkled berries with no sign of mold (if you are buying them in clear box look at the underside). Eat them straight up, on cereal or throw some in a fruit salad or pancake batter.

Don’t even pay attention to the fact that you are consuming a terrific source of vitamin C and potassium. Fiber too. (Bonus points for those who care)

Brooklyn is currently experiencing a heat wave. This is the best possible time to non-cook. I think I’ll start with a handful of berries. The models for this picture are already history!

If you want to know more, here's the Wiki link to Blueberries

Don’t Cook!

2010-07-05T10:59:00.005-04:00

Get food. Eat it! If that’s the sort of cook (or non-cook) you are, this is your season. Find a farmer’s market or grocery store that has rapid turnover and carries fresh produce. Some fruit, cheese, tomatoes, salad greens, a good loaf of whole grain bread and you are good to go. Willing to boil or scramble an egg? The world is an even bigger place!

Seriously, there is plenty to eat that doesn’t require any more preparation than a shower (for the food…I’m assuming that you don’t need this prompt) and a bit of familiarity. Feeling adventurous? Maybe you don’t even need to be on a first name basis. If that sounds a little scary, some time browsing the cookbook section of your favorite bookstore might even convince you to purchase a guide to help get started. Don’t feel like doing that? Try the Internet!

This is the season for fruit, greens and all sorts of edible stuff that can be enjoyed without cooking. If you are at the farmer’s market, ask the farmer how to choose. Basic principles generally apply. Look for fruit or veg that’s not blemished or funky looking. Soft can be good, but not so soft that you can’t get what ever you are purchasing home in one piece.

Imagine yourself living in Paris or some other fantasy of a place where local markets abound. Buy just what you can eat in a day or two (or three). Buying fresh food as often as you can will insure that it’s fresh and flavorful. If you are lucky enough to have a farmer’s market in your life, spend a little extra time and money and reap the rewards. Supporting local food production means that your food hasn’t used a passport to get to your plate. Locally sourced food can stay in the ground or on the tree longer and this is where the flavor part comes in.

A small gesture of faith (in your abilities and self-sufficiency), and the rewards are soon to follow. Your wallet will be fatter, it’s possible that your waistline will be smaller (no processed food at the farmer’s market) and you most certainly will feel the better for all of it!

Swiss, not French! Swiss Chard

2010-07-03T16:28:00.006-04:00

Swiss Chard may not have anything to do with Switzerland. In a moment worthy of French Philosopher Foucault, it’s more about what it isn’t. It isn’t a French 19th Century spinach seed variety and needed to be named something other than 'French'! So? Swiss Chard it is! (To be honest? It’s pretty close to spinach. Those 19th Century French were, perhaps, a little sensitive regarding these matters.)

Tres (that’s French) full of nutrients, eating this not-to-be-confused-with-French-Spinach leafy vegetable will reward you with vitamins C, A and B6, potassium and magnesium, iron and even calcium.

Young chard can be used is salads and needs to be used quickly! The more mature chard (later in the season) needs to be cooked and will loose it’s bitterness in the process.

Chard can be steamed (check ‘Steamed’ entry), braised (I need to do an entry for you about that) or sautéed (ditto re braised).

To get you started, here’s a link from Epicurious.

Subversive Kale Chips

2010-07-01T13:58:00.009-04:00

This is one of those ‘who knew’ recipes. These chips are good! I like to think of them as subversive junk food. The best part? They are very simple to make.

Preheat your oven to 250 degrees

Find:

Two large baking sheets
A tea towel or paper towels
A large bowl (for tossing the kale leaves in)
An oven mitt (or two)
A timer

Prepare:

Wash and dry (this is where you use the tea towel) about 12 kale leaves (curly or Tuscan)
Cut out the tough stem that runs down the center of each leaf
Place the leaves in a large bowl and drizzle a generous tablespoon of olive oil
Toss
As you place the leaves in a single layer on the baking sheets, use your fingers or a brush to more evenly distribute the oil on the leaves.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper (my friend, Cherie, suggested chopped garlic as well. Sounds good to me!)
Set your timer and bake for about 30 to 40 minutes. You’ll know when they are done. The leaves will be stiff and crispy on the baking sheet. The oven is not super hot, so you can carefully check-up on your chips (use your mitt if you want to move the pan).

Done! These were a big hit yesterday with two sets of friends and Pip! Who knew?

Wild Thing: Kale

2010-06-27T09:31:00.005-04:00

Apparently, Kale is wild cabbage (and tastes nothing like cabbage so don't get all weird on me OK?) and related to collards, brussel sprouts and cauliflower (like I said, don’t get weird… you’ll come to love that stuff too). That said, it's been domesticated for around 2,500 years and what originally started in the Mediterranean has been adapted to weather colder climates as well, which sounds pretty civilized to me.

Kale comes in many colors and varieties, and is one of many vegetables whose name comes from the Latin word, caulis, which means "stem" or "stalk" (which is usually removed before cooking). This one is curly leafed, but another of my favorites is lacinato or Tuscan Kale, which has broad flat leaves.

Either way, kale is strong stuff and is only on occasion eaten raw. Among the most intense of leafy greens, it's wonderful in soups and stews, stir-fries or braised with plenty of garlic.

Health benefits, you ask? (Well, maybe you didn't, but again, this stuff is good to know) For being brave and eating your leafy greens, you are rewarded with plenty of fiber, vitamins C and A, antioxidants and even calcium.

Buy firm dark unblemished leaves that show no sign of wilt or yellow. Small leaves will be more tender and will cook faster than the larger leaves, but either is fine. As always, it’s best to use as soon as possible. Store in the refrigerator loosely wrapped in plastic.

Stay tuned; the next blog has a recipe for Kale Chips. How wild is that?

Recipe for a Fly Trap

2010-06-21T08:41:00.003-04:00

Who says you can catch more flies with honey? That may be true, but when it comes to the kitchen, you can catch more flies with vinegar. Let’s skip the flies and honey metaphor for now and attend to the practical.

This is what you really need to know. If, for some reason, you didn’t get to that peach before the more primitive (always up for debate) life forms found it, or you happened to be less than stellar regarding taking the garbage out in a timely fashion, and you find yourself in the company of teeny tiny flies (aka Fruit Flies), put about one inch of apple cider vinegar or balsamic vinegar in a jar or tall glass and add a squeeze or two of dish soap. Stir, don’t shake. You will soon start your very own dead fruit fly collection.

Before the infestation is too much for this simple remedy, take the garbage out and do a kitchen search for the origin of your pests. Then spring into action! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure…. A step in time saves nine… fruit flies are no fun.

The Gowanus Botanical Garden: Flora and Fauna Report

2010-06-17T07:56:00.005-04:00

I’m busy! Busy is great, but doesn’t leave much time for blogging.

And I’m not the only one who’s busy. Adding to the predictable rumble of the F Train, and a very noisy air conditioner a few houses down, the other main racket makers are the sparrows. What a noise! The little ones have learned to fly, but still want room service. They sit in the branches of the lilac tree waiting for their mother to deliver breakfast or lunch or dinner…. birds eat a lot. My guess is that like any growing creature, they are pretty insatiable. This morning’s photo session in the garden frightened them away from the lilac and bird bath (which they really use), but I thought you’d enjoy a picture of the garden regardless.

Another thing that’s growing up in the garden, are our grapes! Remember the earlier entries? Eventually (if the Cardinals don’t get to them first), these will be red and very delicious. If the birds leave us any, I’ll photograph them again.

Flora or fauna, it’s fun to watch things grow up.

String Theory: Garlic Scapes

2010-06-13T20:20:00.009-04:00

This picture of Garlic Scapes got me thinking of String Theory and maybe I’m not so far off. Information was thin enough to be zero dimensional.

The usual sources, McGee, Wiki, Larousse then the Visual Lover’s Guide, Bittman, Madison (you get the idea), were void of any in-depth information regarding these elegant strands.

Scapes are a very very seasonal occasion. Friday, after visiting a friend from upstate for another seasonal occasion (it was Andrea’s birthday), I returned with a monster bag of scapes. Now what? In the spirit of full disclosure, I had been in possession of a bag of these before. A foray for the photogenic at the farmer’s market (say that 10 times) had me returning to the studio with this strange acquaintance. The portrait was taken and then in my ignorance I dumped them all like a bad date. This time, Andrea had entrusted me with a huge sack of lovingly harvested largess and it felt callous to do the same again.

At the party, these had been braised with kale and were delicious. The possibility of turning them into a pesto was also suggested. I don’t always do what I am told, but this bag of green ‘string’ was suddenly feeling like a relationship worth pursuing. Time to step up to the plate and be a responsible adult. Where McGee and Larousse left me hanging, Epicurious came to the rescue. Here’s a simple recipe using the pesto idea for Spaghetti with Ramps that was delicious. The addition of some shrimp made my relationship with these mild garlicky/onion flavored greens almost grounds for a commitment.

I’m glad you had a birthday Andrea. The party bag was unforgettable.

Whoa! Not those sorts of Peaches!

2010-06-10T19:30:00.007-04:00

Just looked at my favorite two sources for information. First, I checked in with food writer Harold McGee. His book, On Food and Cooking, is about the geekiest (and most fascinating) food reference around. Harold writes that Peaches were named after Persia (the name of Iran before 1935) and that when peaches ripen, they do it from along the stem end and the ripening travels along the groove…. interesting but not as groovy as what Wikipedia has to say (which is my next favorite place to get some inspiration). Here things get considerably less ‘geeky’. Wiki's Peach page lists everything from a Canadian musician named ‘Peaches’ to songs, to Peaches and Herb (my tangential groove reference), movies, porn and Pawn Stars!

Maybe we should get back to Harold and all things edible (this is a family blog after all)!

Peaches, Harold goes on to say, have flavor development after harvest. When you get a mealy one (meaning the flesh texture is squishy-nasty) from the supermarket, it’s because the fruit was temporarily stored at too low a temperature in transit.

What does this mean?! Buy peaches now while they are in season, and if you can, get them at the farmer’s market. You want fragrant peaches that are not hard or have a green cast. Also avoid ones that have spots, cracks or bruises. Buy what you can eat soon (not a problem around here)!

Peaches are a terrific source of potassium and iron. Groovy!

Birthday Bash Watermelon

2010-06-07T14:35:00.005-04:00

Sylvia just had a birthday. So did Karan, so did Ted. This is the occasion of our Semi- annual Birthday Bash (my father actually started this tradition, so we have to thank him too and say ‘happy birthday Al’!).

A Summer Birthday Bash means salads, grilled things, chilled drinks, cake and watermelon. I really should have a picture of the ‘gang’ on the deck enjoying summer bounty and each other, but a hostess gets busy.

Jim brought this amazing watermelon and I thought that you would like to know how to choose a good one (it’s obvious that Jim did, because this one was delicious… evidenced by my lack of restraint!).

Look for a watermelon that is heavy for it’s size, has yellow under tones and a nice solid resonance when thumped (Jim is musical so he must have known this). Avoid melons that are cracked or have soft spots. This one has seeds. If you don’t want to mess around with seeds, it is possible to buy a ‘seedless’ watermelon. The Japanese bred ‘seedless’ watermelons in the 1930’s; they are actually melons with seeds so small that you don’t realize that you are eating them. Watermelon is a very rich source of antioxidants, more so than tomatoes! Who knew?!

Eat your melon as soon after purchase as possible. If there should be some leftover, store a cut melon in the fridge with clear wrap on the exposed part.

And just in case you find yourself at a birthday bash eating watermelon with nothing interesting to say (impossible though that may be), you can off handedly remark that watermelons are a distant relative of an ancient African vine and that the Egyptians were eating it 5,000 years ago and the Greeks knew of it in the 4th Century BC (do you think that they had birthday pot-lucks?). Such information is sure to enliven any crowd, or at least get the ball rolling for some bad jokes and more melon!

Happy birthday everyone! What a terrific excuse to gather together and share a meal.

Soba Enlightenment: Be Lucky!

2010-05-27T21:21:00.006-04:00

Be careful what you wish for! Mamie finally got back to me and with more information than a novice soba eater can digest. After a few e-mail exchanges, I distilled the wealth of enlightenment down to a practical amount of information that will help to put you on the road to ‘all things soba’. Like any kitchen knowledge (or knowledge in general), it’s nice to build things up by degrees. When you are ready to make soba noodles from scratch, let me know. Mamie gave me the skinny (recipe) and I’ll be glad to share it with you when you’re inhabited by your inner culinary samurai. In the mean time, here’s some useful (and some fun) information.

Mamie tells me that Soba and Japanese culture cannot be separated. Soba is eaten for good luck, eaten on December 31 just before the New Year (also for good luck) and that the long lasting noodle symbolizes good luck (detecting a trend?), long lasting happiness and long life. This is serious stuff!

Soba can be eaten hot or cold. Hot means soup, and we can do that later. When it’s eaten cold, you want dipping sauce. Apparently the recipe I gave you is not Japanese (don’t tell me I didn’t warn you!). Mamie gave me a recipe for Dashi (a broth made with seaweed and dried tuna flakes…which may sound unappealing but is actually delicious) and we can also get to that later. What you need to know now, is that you can buy instant concentrated dashi at a supermarket that carries Japanese supplies. Simply dilute the concentrate with water and serve with some chopped scallions, wasabi (beautiful green Japanese horseradish) and some shredded seaweed (if you are going totally authentic).

Mamie recommends that you buy either dried or frozen soba noodles. Apparently the fresh stuff can be “very good or terrible”(that’s a direct quote). Generally soba is grey-brownish. The green noodles that are in this photo and the previous soba entry are made with green tea.

Click here for Mamie’s website, Japanese Cooking Studio. When you visit, check out the links about Japanese dining etiquette, how to hold chopsticks and a few recipes as well.

Thanks Mamie...I’m feeling lucky already!

Strawberries! Hey Sylvia!

2010-05-26T15:16:00.003-04:00

Who knew? Blink and they’re all grown-up. Well, almost. The white strawberries still have to ripen, but imagine my surprise when yesterday I went out to check on the ‘Lower Forty’ (as in forty feet) and there they were!

The next phase of this berry drama at The Gowanus Botanical Garden involves beating the birds, squirrels and other varmints to the harvest. I must be a hard case, because although this patch has been producing strawberries for about eight years, I never cease to be amazed and delighted by the discovery of ready to eat fruit that’s as fresh as it can possibly be.

Good things to know? Strawberries are chock full of vitamin C and flavonoids. Flavonoids are considered to fight cancers.

If you don’t have a ‘Lower Forty’ (as in feet or otherwise), try to find a farmer’s market or roadside stand and get them as freshly picked as you can. Look for fully firm, glossy, bright red berries. Check the bottom of the container to make sure that there aren’t any moldy ones hiding from view. Just before serving, wash in cool water (no soaking please).

Now, this is where Sylvia’s culinary expertise comes in. Hey Sylvia! Think you could make us some whipped cream?

Sugar Snaps: Vegetable Candy

2010-05-23T09:12:00.006-04:00

What? Have I gone mad? Nope. I’m not talking about eating sugar. What I am talking about are Sugar Snap Peas. Sugar Snaps become available in late spring (and to be honest, I wrote this blog entry a month ago, so great was my anticipation), choose unblemished firm bright fat beautiful amazingly green pods.

You can blanch them (and we’ve talked about that… see ‘Snack for a Samurai’… if you do blanch, make it a quick one) or you can wash them and eat them just as they are. If there was ever a vegetable that yearned for a makeover as candy, this would be it. Sugar Snaps are seriously sweet, crunchy and delicious.

Not content to leave well enough alone? Here’s a recipe for Sugar Snap Peas with Mint Leaves that I came across (don't tell anyone) in a Martha Stewart book.

Lightly blanch 1 pound of peas, drain and chill in a bowl of ice water. Drain again. In a large bowl, toss with 1/2 cup of fresh mint leaves and 2 Tablespoons of the dressing recipe that follows. Fresh, seasonal and holding a promise that summer is just around the corner, this salad (that will serve 4) is also a ‘snap’ to make!

Combine in a medium bowl:

1/4 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
a dash of kosher salt and a few grinds of pepper

Whisk in:

2 Tablespoons of olive oil
2 Tablespoons of canola oil

This vinaigrette will keep (tightly covered) for about 2 days in the fridge.

Enjoy!

Soba Now, Mamie Later

2010-05-21T12:30:00.006-04:00

What do I know about Soba? Not a whole lot, but after I speak to Mamie, I'll be back with more information. Mamie is from Japan and expert in all things Soba. She is sure to deliver some Soba Enlightenment soon.

Why can’t I wait to speak with Mamie? Because when Sylvia was home last week, we made a very quick and delicious lunch of soba noodles with dipping sauce. The weather is warming up and this seems like excellent information to have under any apron belt.

Start by making the dipping sauce. The flavors can get acquainted with one another while you cook the noodles.

I’m sure there are a million variations (and this is a good place to get creative on your own), but here’s what Sylvia and I made (from Epicurious) and it was a hit.

In a bowl combine:

8 Tablespoons of Light Soy Sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons of Toasted Sesame Oil
2 Tablespoons of water
1/3 cup of chopped scallions (long skinny green onions- cut off and discard the rooty end and a bit of the top first)
4 Tablespoons of pickled ginger, drained

Now for the noodles. Cooking soba is practically identical to cooking pasta. You can review Pasta For Beginners if you're feeling rusty. The biggest difference between what we did last December and what we are doing now is that these noodles will be eaten cold. You should probably skip the extra salt in the water as well (that is unless Mamie says otherwise. I’ll get back to you on this one. In the meantime, there will be plenty of salty-ness in the dipping sauce).

Cook the soba according to the directions on the packet. This means in boiling water for about 6 minutes. Have a large bowl of ice water waiting. When the soba is done ( test a strand to see if it still has a little bite and is not mushy and over cooked) drain, and immediately put the cooked soba into the bowl of waiting ice water. Let it cool completely and drain again (remember your colander?).

Lunch (or snack) time! Here’s a nice little demonstration on YouTube . Basically, your expertly cooked cold noodles (I have every confidence in you) visit the sauce as they travel from plate to dipping sauce to a very happy mouth.

Aliens? No! Rambutans!

2010-05-17T20:55:00.011-04:00

I haven’t been in Chinatown since Tribbles made an appearance on Star Trek (well, that’s not entirely true… but it has been a while). These pretty little ‘hairy’ creatures could easily be mistaken for members of the tribble family or alien Chia pets, so why are they being sold all over lower Manhattan by fruit vendors?! Because they’re fruit!

Originating in Malaysia and from the same family as lychees, Rambutan are full of vitamin C and contain iron and potassium as well. Between the hairy crazy other planetary looking skin and a large seed at the core (that is not for eating), there is a lovely white pulp that's sweet, mild and perfumed. Simply remove the hairy shell with your fingers to find the fruit. Really wonderful. Really delicious.

Dinner was great (I recommend the pea shoots), green tea ice cream can’t be beat, and there’s nothing like a little culinary adventure that’s only one brave action (and a few subway stops) away. Next time you have the opportunity to try something new, just say ‘beam me up’ and go where you may not have gone before!

The Commonality of Celery and Grapes

2010-05-16T10:26:00.009-04:00

You’ve probably guessed what I’m talking about already. Maybe. If not, what do celery and grapes have in common? They are instant snacks. Pretty much wash and go. Celery usually needs a little trimming on the bottom, but apart from that (and a shower), this is one of those ready to eat staples. Add a little peanut butter or, if you really want to go to town, yogurt dip, and you’re talking snack fest!

Look for heads of celery that are glossy and firm with a minimum of brown scars or damage to the stems. If you have the option, choose heads with leaves attached (when we get into soups later in the season you’ll be glad of them). Store lightly wrapped in a damp cloth inside a container or plastic bag with holes (loosely closed).

If you are not crazy about the fibrous strands along a celery rib (which is what you call one of the pieces from the stalk), you can easily strip them away. Once you’ve trimmed the rib, simply take a paring knife and you will feel the raised bits along the cut edge. Grabbing them with your knife and thumb, you can pull the strands away.

Speaking of which, celery is a terrific source of dietary fiber and potassium along with some Vitamin C and B6 thrown in for good measure.

Other fun stuff? Birds, guinea pigs, horses, squirrels, small rodents and even dogs love celery (Pip agrees). If you want to know about celery in history (and who doesn’t?) check out the page in Wikipedia. Garlands of celery leaves were found in the tomb of Tutankhamun. In Homer’s Iliad, horses graze on wild celery and it’s mentioned in the Odyssey as having been outside the cave of Calypso (a sea goddess who was crazy about Odysseus. He must have eaten celery sometime during the seven years that she kept him hostage… grapes too for that matter).

So there you have it! An instant snack for your favorite dog, rodent, goddess, hero or even yourself!

The Civilized Grape

2010-05-12T22:29:00.004-04:00

Who hasn’t experienced a grape? Nothing beats the instant gratification of this lovely snack (or simple stand-in for dessert). You may have had grapes in a chicken salad or dessert or in the guise of grape jelly, raisins, oil, vinegar, juice and (of course) wine. Grapes have been consumed as either fruit or wine since the ancient Greeks, Phoenicians and Romans were around. In other words, grapes have been witness to the beginnings of Western Civilization!

Grapes are a good source of fiber, potassium. Vitamins C, B6 and Thiamine (which is necessary for all organ systems). Red grapes are particularly high in antioxidants.

But don’t let all this goodness interfere with the pleasure of eating a lovely grape. Purchase grapes that are firm, wrinkle free, without spots and that are not white where they attach to the stem. Wash them thoroughly. Don’t confuse the ‘bloom’ (white coating) with lack of washing. Detach a cluster from the stem by cutting with scissors. This way the stems won’t dry out and the still attached grapes will not become soft or shriveled before their time. Store them in the refrigerator (wrapped loosely in a paper towel and stored in a plastic bag with holes). If you can restrain yourself, let them warm up just a bit before eating.

Aren’t they beautiful to look at as well? Let’s get civilized!

Finer Company

2010-05-11T17:22:00.005-04:00

It occurred to me, after writing the quinoa entry, that you may not know what a fine mesh strainer or sieve is. Well here it is. Now you know. Behind is our friend, the colander, who made an appearance back in ‘Strained Relationships’.

Because quinoa has to be washed, and would have slipped through the holes in an ordinary colander (which is usually the first thing to grab when you need to rinse out fruit or vegetables), this is a necessary kitchen tool. A strainer is also good for rinsing rice, straining liquids and often proves to be a very handy thing indeed. I have some smaller ones that get used for skimming broth or fishing bits out of -well, stuff.

Rinsing the quinoa in this strainer, I barely had room to swish it around. Next time I have some fun money, I think I’m going to buy an even bigger one.

Rule of thumb is, buy the best you can afford from a place that sells lots of cooking supplies (you will avoid cheap supermarket stuff this way). Not only will you have the pleasure of working with a quality piece of kitchen equipment, it will last you a long time and ultimately will not be a waste of money. You’ll be in ‘finer company’!

Meet Pip The Wonder Pup

2010-05-09T09:29:00.009-04:00

Food is not all about you! Actually, the best part of food is feeding the other creatures in your life (family and friends-both human and otherwise). Which brings me to Pip. Pip is the other ‘foodie’ in this house and will eat most anything. Although it’s always refreshing to have a creature nearby that is willing to eat her veg (Pip loves broccoli, bless her!) and who never complains about presentation (although nobody really does… I’m just being silly), there are some food guidelines that you should know regarding pets and people food.

Here’s what I just learned via the ASPCA web site.

Don’t let your pet eat:

Coffee Grounds or anything with caffeine, Tea included
Grapes or Raisins (I knew about the raisins. Pip loves grapes, guess she’s had her last)
Chocolate
Yeast Dough (very small amounts of baked bread are OK)
Avocado
Alcoholic Beverages
Macadamia Nuts (who knew?)
Undercooked or Raw Meat, Eggs and Bones
Milk
Onions (including garlic, chives and other members of the onion family)
Salt
Fatty Foods
And anything containing the sweetener Xylitol

Pip is wonderful for all sorts of reasons, not all food related. Next time we share a meal, remind me to tell you the story of Pip and the F Train.

And to those of you that take care of creatures or humans, ‘Happy Mother’s Day!’.

Quinoa Cooked!

2010-05-05T15:17:00.008-04:00

Here’s how to cook quinoa:

Measure one cup of quinoa and place in a fine mesh sieve (hopefully you have a sieve with ample room). Suspend the sieve containing the quinoa over a bowl that is larger than the sieve. Run cool water over the quinoa, allowing it to drain (and if there is room in your sieve, help it along with a little stir). When the water appears clear in the bowl, you are done. (You have just rinsed off saponin, a white powder that protects the seed from varmints in the field, but causes a bitter taste if not rinsed off before cooking.)
Put the rinsed quinoa in a saucepan with 2 cups of water or broth (chicken or vegetable) and bring to a boil. When you reach a boil (the water will be very active), place the lid on the pan and simmer (turn the heat down so that the water is only a little active) for 15 minutes (you have your timer… right?).
Turn off the heat and let sit with the lid on for about 10-15 minutes. You know that your seeds are cooked when you see the little spirals
Stir in a little butter or some olive oil and adjust the salt and pepper to taste. This is also a great time to toss in some peas and sautéed onions. That, or anything else you fancy!

If you are interested, here's a link to a recipe for Quinoa with Spring Veg on Epicurious

The Corner of Strawberry and Vine

2010-05-02T18:15:00.007-04:00

The quinoa cooking can wait, it’s way too beautiful out today and nature is acting out! In a day or two, this photo will be old news and it’s time to seize the moment.

Do you remember the entry of April 11th (http://bit.ly/b3P7ty), just one month ago? Our starlets were simply young things with an interesting future but not much else. After four weeks, they are showing all the promise of performances to come.

Pretty strawberries have bloomed and in a few days the delicate white flowers will have skipped town. All eyes will be on the gripping drama of growing berries.

We are still a long way from harvesting grapes, but the growth is impressive. Each day is different and I’m a captive audience.

Plenty of raw talent in this garden!

Keen What? Quinoa and Conquistadors!

2010-04-30T21:29:00.006-04:00

The Incas knew that Quinoa (pronounced keen-wa) helped to increase the stamina of their warriors. In fact, the Spanish Conquistadors, in an effort to control South America (this was way before your time, actually before the time of anyone able to read this blog), destroyed quinoa fields. At one time it was almost extinct! If this tasty stuff is worth such a fuss, maybe we should give it a try.

Quinoa looks like a grain, but in fact it’s a seed that's packed with all 9 amino acids (meaning it delivers in the protein department). It's also chock full of magnesium, iron, copper and phosphorus, all of which are thought to be helpful for people troubled by migraines, diabetes and heart issues.

Today’s illustration shows uncooked red and white quinoa seeds ( it also comes in pink, orange, purple and black- though I have yet to see those). I recommend starting with the white, which has a milder flavor than the red (both are delicious and nutty). Quinoa is not cheap, but given all the nutrients that are packed into each tiny seed and the fact that it will expand to at least twice its size when cooked, this is a solid case of ‘good things come in small packages’.

Someone should have tipped off those Conquistadors. Instead of searching for gold, they should have been harvesting this seed with a wealth of goodness.

Next blog we’ll skip the history lesson and get down to cooking!

Lettuce Wrap-Up

2010-04-28T10:59:00.005-04:00

What did the salad say to the… oh never mind… let’s save that joke for the next time you hang out with a four year old.

What you do need to know, is how to store your lettuce and not waste a bit of goodness.

The hardier sorts of leafy greens, like Romaine, have greater tolerance for sitting in the fridge. Leaf lettuce, like our friend Red, will not last quite as long. Wash and dry both of these, wrap in some paper towels and store inside a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of your fridge.

Our other favorite, Arugula, is fast company and requires (well, prefers) slightly different treatment. Use it ASAP, but if you need to store it, wrap the roots in a damp paper towel and store in a plastic bag. Of all our featured leafy greens, Arugula needs to be enjoyed first.

Salad time is just around the corner, so lettuce be ready!

Spin Cycle: Lettuce

2010-04-25T10:49:00.005-04:00

Now that you have some lettuce in your life, how to take care of it? Let’s start with the prep part.

Remove any wilted, brown or slimy bits.
Always wash in cool/ cold water. Go to the sink and either use a colander or swish it in a bowl (changing the water until it’s clear-a spinner will help you do both) and drain.
Dry your lettuce – if you have a salad spinner (as in today’s illustration) have fun, but don’t spin the life out of it. You can also do the none-gadget thing and dry your leafy greens with a towel.
Get it down to bite sized. There are two schools of thought: either tear along the natural lines of the leaf, preventing yellowing OR cut it with a sharp knife to avoid crushing the tender leaves. I guess this means that anything works!
The drier the leaves, the easier time any dressing you use will be able to cling.

Lettuce Get Acquainted: Three favorites

2010-04-22T18:25:00.003-04:00

Romaine (the long one in the back)
Arugula (the next one with the long stem)
Red Leaf (the name says it all)

Romaine is top notch in the lexicon of lettuce. Full of vitamins, minerals and fiber, its long firm leaves are wonderfully crunchy and hold their own when it comes to dressings and other ingredients. This is what you’ll get when you order a Caesar Salad that’s made properly!

Arugula is technically a vegetable and not a lettuce. That said, I’ve never witnessed it being kicked out of a salad as an imposter. In Europe it’s called ‘rocket’ which better describes the peppery sharp taste that’s terrific on pizza (just as it’s coming out of the oven) or in a salad with milder greens.

Red Leaf is softer than our other featured lettuce-y friends. Leaf lettuces are milder in the crunch department and more delicate in flavor. A simple light dressing will suffice. These large pretty leaves can also dress-up a tuna or egg salad by situating themselves between the plate and main feature.

Whatever sort of lettuce you choose to keep company with, look for a crisp, un-wilted compact character with no hint of sliminess and a minimum of brown in the stem.

Keep in mind, that generally speaking, the darker the leaf color, the higher it is in nutrients.

Lettuce eat!

Broccoli: Sauced!

2010-04-15T15:37:00.004-04:00

Now this is getting out of control! Who thought that getting reacquainted with broccoli could be such a rewarding and exciting experience (your mother, that’s who…. But let’s not go there)!

Dipping Sauce (this is good for all sorts of veg… cooked and raw, hot, cold and inbetween)

In a jar (with a nice tight lid) mix the following:

1/2 cup of Soy Sauce
2-3 Tablespoons of Rice Vinegar
2-3 Tablespoons of water (or to taste... if you like it strong, skip the water)
1 Tablespoon of Sugar
2 cloves of Garlic minced (which means chopped very fine)
1 Tablespoon of peeled minced fresh Ginger Root
A couple of finely chopped Scallions (optional)

Shake it all up and you are ready to go! This is one of those imprecise recipes. Use right away or within 2 days (can also be used as a marinade).

Maybe it's time to teach your mother a few things!

Broccoli: What Your Mother Didn't Tell You

2010-04-15T15:19:00.005-04:00

She probably did not tell you how to prepare this stuff! (Or maybe you just weren’t paying attention…well, don’t squander another opportunity to learn about preparing broccoli.)

After washing in cool water, drain and get out your best knife and a cutting board.
Cut off the bottom of the stem and discard the end.
Hold (but don’t crush) onto the top part with the florets and use them as a handle. Take your knife and pare away and leaves and tough outsides off the stalk. You can discard these bits too (illustrated in the foreground off the board).
Cut off the stalk just below the florets.
By cutting, separate the florets into little mini bunches.
Slice the stalk into sticks so that they are roughly the size of the floret stalks.

You are ready to steam! After a few minutes, check for doneness with the sharp tip of a knife. It should slip in to the stem. A bit of resistance means that you haven’t overcooked your veg (which is a very good thing). Don’t forget your mitt and don’t forget that the steam wants to escape! (see ‘Steamed!’ blog from January 15).

You know what? I bet your mother didn’t teach you how to make dipping sauce either. That’s our next installment… if you can’t wait, a splash of soy sauce on that lovely, bright green, lightly steamed broccoli is just the ticket. Yum!

Broccoli 101: The Noble Veg

2010-04-15T14:47:00.005-04:00

I hate to sound like your mother, but broccoli is very good for you. Now, don’t go away. The next few episodes of New Kitchen Primer are going to change your relationship with this noble veg.

Today is about how to choose a magnificent head of broccoli. Although broccoli can come in a few outfits (green, white and purple), today’s illustration is what you will typically come across. Choose a firm, heavy head with compact florets (the top part) and firm stems. Avoid a broccoli that looks like it’s ‘been around the block’. By this I mean, avoid any broccoli sporting little flowers, yellow patches or a wilted and rubbery demeanor.

In the mean time, how about the sub-text that went unmentioned when your mother was bugging you to ‘eat your broccoli’?

Cooked, broccoli is an excellent source of vitamin C and potassium. It also has folic acid, vitamin A, iron and phosphorus. Broccoli is even anti-cancerous! Now how can you argue with your mother about eating all that goodness?

If your enthusiasm knows no bounds, and if it's washed, you can eat it raw. If you are not yet that hard-core regarding veg consumption, stay tuned for the next exciting installment: What Your Mother Did Not Tell You.

What Thyme Is It?

2010-04-14T10:24:00.003-04:00

Time to do a little research in Harold McGee’s book On Food and Cooking (which I recommend to any one with even a pinch of food geek in them). Here’s a small sample of what I found.

Thyme keeps company with garlic, cinnamon, cloves and oregano because all of these can kill disease microbes, which is probably why people started using herbs and spices in the first place.

Define Herbs and Spices? They are plant material that is used for flavoring in small amounts. Thyme falls into the category of herb because it comes from the green part of a plant. It’s the cells on the outside that store aromas. Thyme has glandular hairs on stems and leaves that contain aromatic oils.

But how about thyme itself? Just as you will find many types of mint, sage and other herbs, the thyme varieties at the market yesterday were all beckoning. I noticed that the English Thyme was better suited to shade planting, a must for my city garden. I bought the other, full sun variety, just to see if it would survive. And the... Lemon Thyme. I’m about to suggest something a little weird, but I hope that you will trust me just enough to give this a try. It’s a flavor pairing not to be missed.

Next time you have (a small reasonable serving of good quality) vanilla ice cream, sprinkle about a teaspoon of fresh lemon thyme leaves on top. Seriously terrific. What time is it? It’s spring thyme!

Gowanus Botanical Garden Report: My Favorite Thing!

2010-04-11T17:29:00.004-04:00

We have a joke in our house about Pip (my canine pal). She is very indiscriminate and always ready to show enthusiasm. Every bark translates as,‘My favorite thing!’.

Unlike Pip, I like to think that I am very discriminating. So, when I say that spring is ‘My favorite thing!’ I really really mean it.

Here is some of what's happening at the ‘Gowanus Botanical Garden’. Because my garden is a city garden and presents a few challenges, the edible bounty at the moment is limited to herbs and grapes. Oh… and strawberries.

The first illustration is a very young strawberry plant. The buds you see will turn into flowers whose centers will turn into strawberries. These are usually ripe for Sylvia and my father’s birthday party in late May, early June.

The next illustration is of a grapevine waking up. This little bud will extend itself and eventually transform into some lovely purple grapes. The birds take full advantage and usually get first pick!

Next we have young sage leaves. As the season progresses, they will be come longer and more plentiful. Burnt butter and freshly chopped sage will make for a very quick ravioli sauce.

And finally, oregano. The dried stuff in the cupboard will be neglected until winter begins. There’s nothing like stepping out into the garden to collect something fresh.

My favorite thing!

Beautiful Ugli

2010-04-07T17:15:00.007-04:00

Walt Whitman was writing about President Abraham Lincoln’s face when he wrote:

“…so awful ugly it becomes beautiful”

He could have been writing about our Ugli Fruit.

Remember the entry when our Ugli was not ripe? I was waiting for the expected yellow color but couldn't resist when the not yet yellow, but carefully observed fruit, was soft and fragrant.

Success! Juicy and delicious as promised, it tasted sort of like a grapefruit but sweeter. What I did discover is that you should cut off all the pith (the white stuff between the skin and fruit). Maybe this was necessary because our fruit wasn’t fully yellow, but the segments are large and a small paring knife was all that was required to remove the final membrane holding in the juicy inner fruit.

Whitman knew that just like Lincoln’s face, once you get acquainted with something unusual there’s beauty discovered. Ugli was delicious.

Hercules and Hydroponics

2010-04-05T19:44:00.003-04:00

These are the tomatoes mentioned in the last entry. Noticed how I threw around the word ‘hydroponics’? Did it work? Were you impressed?

Now you can be impressive too (or know what this means next time you buy an out-of-season hydroponically grown tomato).

The Greek word for ‘water’ is hydros. Fused with another Greek word ponos, meaning ‘labor’, we have a new word used to explain this form of agriculture. Plants that are grown in water without the use of soil are hydroponically grown. The water is reused, nutrients are easily dispersed and because it all happens in a controlled environment this method is used to grow many many tomatoes cost effectively.

In Greek mythology, the Hydra was a water monster that grew two heads for every one cut off. It was Hercules who finally figured out how to do the Hydra in. Now imagine the monster as a tomato plant, plants often make two branches where they are cut off just like the Hydra. Did you ever think that tomatoes had anything in common with ancient mythological monsters?

Maybe next time you buy an out-of-season, soilessly grown tomato, you might also think of water monsters and Herculean efforts - something that will not be required to enjoy a nice fat tomato!

Sprouts! An Unintended Outcome

2010-04-03T18:52:00.003-04:00

Sometimes looking for one thing means you stumble upon another (don’t look for sugar snap peas before June). At the Farmer’s Market this morning, my unintended find was Sunflower Sprouts. “Ah Ha” (I said to myself…although if I had said this aloud, no one would have noticed in the bustle of the market) “ I am going to use these as a substitute for lettuce in this afternoon’s BLT” (as in bacon lettuce and tomato sandwich).

Nutty and full of body, I had a hunch that they would make a nice stand-in for the L part of the equation and even add a bit of crunch.

Sprouts are germinated plant seeds and although some sprouts are toxic (don’t go in your garden for random sprouty stuff), many (just like these) are nutritious and very good for you.

Buy sprouts as fresh as you can, eat them as soon as you can and until then, keep them refrigerated until you are ready to wash them thoroughly in cool water and enjoy.

PS The BLT was superlative. Farm raised bacon, whole wheat bread, hydroponic tomatoes (like sugar snaps, they are not in season just yet), sprouts and some lovely French mayonnaise.

April in Paris: The French Paradox

2010-04-01T12:28:00.006-04:00

Your shoe is untied! Really! OK, it’s not untied, and that is the end of my April Fool’s moment. What I really think of in April is Paris. And why not? It’s always good to have a dream and I may not have been there in April, but I have been there on occasion (Cathy used to call Paris home). It’s my next favorite place after Brooklyn. But I digress…

Let’s get on to something about food. “The French Paradox” is all about food. This is not something I made up (and no April Fool’s joke). The paradox of the French is that they manage to eat all manner of things that we Americans consider ‘bad for you’ (cheese, meats, wine, pastries…I’m getting hungry!). The paradox part is that as a culture, the French have lower rates of obesity, heart disease and other health problems that we associate with eating.

How do they do it? Paul Rozin, a psychology professor at the University of Pennsylvania, has compared the eating practices of people in the United States and France. He suggests that it’s not so much what we eat, but how we eat and what our cultural relationship with food consists of. The French have a pretty strict set of rules regarding food, here they are.

Eat small portions
Do not snack
Do not eat alone
Take your time

Doesn’t sound too difficult does it?

I think it also helps that the French eat food that (with the exception of white flour and sugar) is not processed. They also spend more money and effort on the quality of their meals and have a real appreciation for what is in front of them. They also walk. Exercise is part of eating.

So… while we may not be in Paris, it’s possible to bring a little bit of France to our own lives in the form of healthy food culture and perhaps a nice long walk.

Bon Appetite!

Sparrow Grass and What the Romans Knew

2010-03-27T10:13:00.009-04:00

Asparagus at the farmer's market is a sure sign of spring (it's nice to have a reliable indicator...the weather is behaving oddly these days). Full of fiber and antioxidants, low in sodium and cholesterol, asparagus possesses a list of vitamins as long its history. Asparagus is mentioned in the oldest surviving cookbook (which is Roman and dates back to the third century) and fell out of favor in the middle ages to return in the 17th century and gain popularity and the name 'sparrow's grass'. But you don't need to know that. It's delicious. Anything else is pure bonus.

PLUS... It's literally a 'snap' to prepare. Choose firm unwrinkled stalks (they can be thin, fat, purple, white or the usual green) with intact spear tops. After washing them in cold water hold a single spear from both sides of the stalk and gently snap off the base. It will naturally break off where the woody part finishes and the tender part begins (you can discard the woody part). Now you can steam, poach, broil or grill. Sparrow grass is great hot, cold or at room temperature.

Try poaching for starters (it’s the easiest way with the least amount of clean-up). Simply put an inch or so of water in a large fry or sauté pan and when the water boils add a little salt and the prepared spears. When they are barely tender (don't over cook! We are talking just a couple of minutes at the most-test with a sharp little knife) remove, drain and serve with a little melted butter, salt and pepper. The Romans were on to something!

Thinking of a tattoo? or Why Grains?

2010-03-25T14:33:00.005-04:00

Thinking of a tattoo? How about:

Grains Good/ Processed Foods Bad ?

OK, not the trendiest motto (how about another option? ‘My Mother is Beautiful in Everyway’). All right, I know it's rather lengthy, but this is very important stuff and worthy of permanent residence somewhere close to your heart. If you are not willing to emblazon ‘Grains Good/ Processed Foods Bad’ in some discreet place, how about really giving this some thought instead?

Unlike refined flour, whole grains are rich in nutritional benefits and fiber. All of which translates into reducing the risk of heart disease, cancer and digestive problems. Not stressing your system with processed food (especially refined corn products) will help to protect you from chronic diseases such as diabetes and high blood pressure.

There’s no time like the present to start the shift towards foods that are healthy and full of benefit. No one is suggesting that you give up white flour and sugar overnight… but once you start on the path of whole foods (and eating only those things you can pronounce), I will personally guarantee that you will feel better and possibly drop those pesky extra pounds without feeling hungry or slighted in any way.

FYI, here’s a link to the USDA site that really spells it out:

http://www.mypyramid.gov/pyramid/grains_why.html

You Must Believe In Spring (Greens)

2010-03-23T13:48:00.006-04:00

Sylvia came home the other week and I’m wrapping my head around the fact that she really doesn’t want to cook. You know what? That’s OK. Once you know your demons, it’s a lot easier to take them to task. And what (you might very well ask) has this to do with Salad Greens? Instant food. That’s what. Along with an insulated bag of fairly healthy microwavable meals, Sylvia’s bag contained a box of this stuff and a bottle of salad dressing. Sylvia?! It doesn’t get much easier than this!

So, now that I have unburdened myself with that part of the story, I thought that you might like to know something about boxed greens (apart from the fact that in order to be a healthy-greens-eating member of the community, all you need is a box of this ready-to-go greenery and maybe some salad dressing).

Michael Pollan reports in his book, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, that these organic baby spring greens are grown not all mixed up like in the bag (or box), but in raised flats containing one sort, thickly planted and leveled by a laser beam. When they get to the required height, the harvester can more easily cut the leaves and hence the uniformity expressed in the box. Strips of sweet alyssum (a very pretty little flower) help to attract pests. Once the leaves are harvested, all the sorting, mixing, washing, drying and packaging as well as transport happens at a steady 36 degrees.

There is so much more to this box of greens than meets the eye. I’ll write more later, but this will get your full appreciation jump-started for the miracle of instant salad and a simple box of green.

Something New: Ugli Edition

2010-03-21T13:10:00.005-04:00

With a face that only a mother could love, let me introduce you to (and I’m not kidding) the Ugli Fruit. Actually, this is my introduction too. An early trip to the Food Coop (an activity not for the faint of heart given how crowded it can get on a Sunday) got me thinking of the blog and how last time I wrote I encouraged you to learn something new. So, I plucked up my courage and the most unusual thing I could find. Here’s what I’ve learned so far…

For starters, this cross between a grapefruit, orange and tangerine, is also known as a Jamaican Tangelo. A little more reading on Wikipedia informed me that this particular fruit is not yet ready to eat. In the Coop I had picked the bright green fruit that had fewer blemishes than it’s companions and seemed firmer. Well, if I had been this fruits’ mother, I would have known to pick one of the orange colored fruits, which is what an Ugli Fruit looks like when it’s ripe. I’ll photograph this again when it’s ready to eat and we can all have our Ugli Edition 'learn-something-new-everyday' moment together.

Not Always a Dangerous Thing!

2010-03-18T13:43:00.008-04:00

Life is busy! Getting to the blog requires time and there hasn’t been a whole lot of that going around. Cathy, the Pastry Chef Sibling, is back in Brooklyn packing all her belongings (and considerable baking supplies) for the move to Wales. We are a little disheveled around here to say the least.

BUT… people have to eat and a meal is a good way for Cathy to have time with friends before her departure. So what to serve? I quickly grabbed the most recent copy of Bon Appetite and choose a recipe from the ‘quick and easy’ section (I think that’s what it’s called). Dinner was a success. Grilled asparagus, shallots and chicken cutlets with quinoa on the side. What’s quinoa? There’s a future blog entry for certain about this grain, but right now, I’m thinking about sources.

For last night’s meal the original idea came from a magazine. Gourmet may not be around anymore, but if you cruise the magazine section at your local bookstore, there may be something there that appeals to you. Magazines deal with seasonal suggestions and often have sections about technique… usually with an illustration to help. Then there is always the companion website as well.

Last night, I knew that I wanted to add quinoa to the menu, but as I haven’t cooked it all that often (and truth be told, I like to use a recipe for most things), I needed to get some help. Doing a search on www.epicurious.com/ (a recipe site) got me started and then I cross-referenced it in one of my basic books, How To Cook Everything, by Mark Bittman. By looking at a couple of sources, the principles about how to cook this particular grain were easier to grasp.

I know that cook books can be daunting, which is why I started this blog to begin with, but I suspect that some of you (are you listening Gerald?) may be ready to expand your culinary horizons. Don’t be afraid of a little more information, it’s not always a dangerous thing!

Separation Anxiety: Eggs

2010-03-14T14:29:00.008-04:00

A separation of any sort can be stressful, advice of any flavor can seem patronizing and unsympathetic. Not so with eggs. They are the notable exception to this quandry. Here are a few safeguards that will ease your anxiety and boost your kitchen confidence (confidence always being an attractive trait!).

For starters, why do you need a separation? Today I am making a caramel custard that requires 6 whole eggs plus 5 yokes (this is the bowl I used with the combination of separated and non separated eggs). You may want to make an egg-white omelet or meringues. Each of these require a civilized parting of the ways. As in most tasks, your own method will present itself with time and experience. Illustrated in this picture are a few elements that will help you get started and insure a happy outcome.

• An egg separator: There are a number of them out in the world. The non-gadget way of using the shell works too… but a gadget helps. An egg separator has a little cup for the yoke and an exit for the white.

• A prep bowl: This is key. If you goof up (your egg gets so stressed out by the process that the yoke breaks and spills into the white), you are only one egg down.

• A large bowl: For the eggs that made a successful transition.

• A freezer ready container: No need to waste anything egg. Eggs freeze just fine. Make sure you label the container with the date and amount. These extra whites will make meringues later.

There goes the timer... excuse me while I check the custard!

What is It?: The Sophisticated Shallot

2010-03-12T15:59:00.005-05:00

Last night I dined with my neighbors, Sue and Antonio. As often happens over good food and company, the conversation was about…well… food! And why not? It’s something that we all have in common and something we all have opinions about - two essentials for lively discourse. I can’t remember how today’s mystery vegetable came up, but Antonio mentioned that knowing what it was, was a sign of culinary sophistication. AND as it happens, I had just taken this vegetable portrait thinking that there was no excuse for New Kitchen Primer readers to be caught off guard and unknowledgeable.

So, here it is. This is a shallot. Related to the ordinary onion but not ordinary at all. A shallot grows in clusters, has a finer texture and is milder and sweeter than an ordinary onion. Wonderful cooked (in South East Asian cuisines it’s often fried until brown and crispy), shallots are also great pickled or raw.

Next time you make a salad dressing, put some chopped shallots in the vinegar while you are getting out the greens. A little extra time marinating (and we are just talking about a few minutes), will make for an even ‘sweeter’ result. Add some Dijon and you will be culinary sophistication itself!

Vinaigrette with Dijon and Shallots

Wisk together or shake in a tightly covered jar the following:

One Tablespoon (or more to taste) of minced shallot
2 Tablespoons of white wine vinegar (or red)
One teaspoon (or more more to taste…you get the idea) of Dijon mustard
1/4 cup of olive oil…. Extra Virgin if you have it
Salt and Pepper (yup! you guessed it) to taste

Unusual Fruit: Kiwi as Metaphor

2010-03-10T12:42:00.005-05:00

This beautiful and strange creature has become common to our supermarkets, but only since the 1980’s after undergoing a name change and some pretty heavy marketing… who says that fruits don’t need publicity managers?

Originally from China and having a host of names (Macaque Peach, Vine Pear and Unusual Fruit amongst them), they are mostly grown in Italy and New Zealand. Kiwis grow on vines (not unlike grapes) and have funny hairy skins and as many as 1,500 tiny little seeds inside. The bright green fruit is packed with loads of vitamins and vitamin C in abundance. There’s also plenty of potassium, fiber and an agent that works like aspirin therapy. The natural blood thinners in Kiwi help to reduce clots and lower the fat in blood that can cause blockages.

You will sometimes see Kiwi cooked in tarts, but to take full advantage of the delicate flavor and health advantages, it’s best raw (and easiest… nothing like a little instant gratification). But here’s the tricky part. Ripe or not, the outside of a Kiwi looks the same. The best way to judge when your Unusual Fruit is ready to eat is to give it a little squeeze. If it’s hard, leave it out at room temperature. The flesh will soften and you might even notice a lovely fruity smell. Soft? It’s ready. Wash thoroughly and eat the whole thing (more vitamin C and antioxidants this way) or (if you want to avoid the hairy skin), cut it in half and eat with a spoon or peel and slice. Once you’ve braved the unusual it won’t be very unusual at all (your food-as-metaphor moment for the day)!

How Crud-ité!: Simple Yogurt Dip

2010-03-08T10:35:00.001-05:00

Didn’t mean to leave you hanging in dip suspense. Here’s a simple recipe for a Yogurt Dip that will turn all your bite sized raw vegetables into Crudités (from the Latin word ‘crudus’ which means raw). Great party food for any night!

In a bowl, combine:

1 cup of plain yogurt (unsweetened, unflavored and preferably without gelatin or pectin)
1 garlic clove either minced or put through a garlic press
a dash of lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste

If you are feeling ambitious add chopped onion, parsley and or chili powder… experiment! Refrigerate if you are not using it right away. Best the same day.

Note: Don’t forget to wash your veg in cold water before preparing. Vegetables very at home with dip are carrots, celery, bell pepper strips, broccoli, asparagus and our current star, cauliflower.

Oscar Contender: Romanesco Broccoli

2010-03-06T12:32:00.006-05:00

Right out of Avatar, this beautiful, elegant vegetable (also known as Green Cauliflower) would not be out of place on the planet Pandora. And why not? Vegetables can be stars too! What could be more stunningly 3-D than this fluorescent green vegetable demonstration of a fractal (keeping company with snowflakes, crystals, lightning bolts and even galaxy formation)?

As a contender for ‘Best Supporting Vegetable’ this cauliflower is possessed of a fantastic amount of vitamin C, a variety of B vitamins and even some iron and fiber. More tender than the usual earthly varieties, this cauliflower has a ‘nutty’ flavor and is best served as a crudité with other raw vegetables. Good Oscar company! Pass the envelope and the dip!

Tundra Toast: Survival Food

2010-03-04T13:12:00.003-05:00

Ok, so now you know about UHT, what’s another way to have edible stuff that is always available no matter how pre-occupied, lazy, jetlagged or (your excuse here) you may be? The freezer!!! As in ‘duh’.

To be honest? I don’t go through a loaf of bread in time for it to stay fresh. Ditto for hamburger buns and onion naan (a Middle Eastern flat bread that is one of my favorites). By freezing a selection of breads, and simply thawing out what you want (the toaster or toaster oven will do this in a snap) you will always have variety and something edible to give you the strength necessary for a trip to the store. Which is where I am headed. I promise an entry with something fresh next time! That is after I thaw out a piece of naan and some soup and finalize the grocery list.